Half a croquette and half a glass of wine: the solution to be able to continue eating out

“This summer, on several occasions, I’ve been asked for half a glass of wine,” explains Camila Espinoza. She is a sommelier and owner of Pepa Bar a Vins, a restaurant that is always packed to the rafters on Carrer Aribau in Barcelona. Faced with my look of astonishment, she tells me that it is not an isolated incident. In some cases, it is to save money. They ask for one glass of wine and an empty one, and they share it. In others, it is not an economic saving but a way to be able to taste more wines without the need to drink so much alcohol. She confirms this herself with her water orders. Before, she used to order four cases of water a week, and now she orders six. “Regarding water, obviously there is also a key factor, which is the heat we’ve had this summer. This has combined with the general drop in alcohol consumption and the decline in purchasing power, but also the infernal heat,” she clarifies. “I think it’s good that people want to take better care of themselves, you know? It’s just that everyone has lost purchasing power. Us too.” In her restaurant, however, she has decided not to incorporate non-alcoholic wine references, despite the trend. “Instead of serving a non-alcoholic wine, we prefer to offer water or a kombucha made in Gelida,” Espinoza concludes.

The heat is an element that several restaurateurs highlight as one of the factors that has caused revenue to drop. Less appetite and terraces that are unusable for many hours of the day. In summer resort areas, such as the Balearic Islands, a beverage supplier explains that revenue has also dropped. In fact, the restaurant and nightlife associations in the Balearic Islands estimated the drop in revenue this August at 20%. And they acknowledge the paradox that more tourists did not mean more money in the till because they spend less. The reasons? Various, but it is difficult to know how much weight each one carries. What is certain is that receipts are on the decline. “This summer I have brought in 30% less,” a Catalan restaurateur in a summer resort area tells me, who assures that, with current margins, the season has left him in the red. Tourists are also spending less. The increase in the cost of overnight stays with the same or smaller budgets, tourist apartments with kitchens, prepared dishes from supermarkets... Each restaurateur has their own theory. Once again, however, the numbers are clear.

The young and the old

On August 14th, Lluís Bernils Vinyes, chef and owner of El Celler de Matadepera, posted the following tweet: “The new trend. Ordering everything to share. Table of 4. 2 starters, 2 rice dishes. And that’s it. Broke mode on”. The tweet generated various reactions. People who believed it is something to be grateful for that they visit you even if you are not well-off. Others pointed out that perhaps these are people who eat less. Another added the factor of weight-loss drugs that inhibit appetite. Bernils speaks to ARA and states that there has not been a change in habits. For him, the main reason is that “life is expensive and people can’t keep up with everything”. “Young people snack on a few things and have a few beers. No desserts or coffee. And older people, and here a change in habits is indeed noticeable, no longer have big dinners”. He tells me that, for the first time, Saturday nights are a slow service. Apart from resources, he also attributes it to each person's priorities: “Many young people can spend 150 euros on a concert ticket, but they wouldn't do it in a restaurant”.

They, having a regular clientele, since 90% of diners are repeat customers, have not noticed the decline as much because people already know where they are going. And because, in addition, they are a place for celebrations for many families, and here people do spend a little more. “This Friday evening we have a celebration of eighty people. And on Sunday one of forty”. He explains that he has given them a fixed price of seventy plus drinks or sixty with drinks included respectively. Now, mind you, it is all done by four people and a fifth at the dishwashing station. “We can adjust because there are few of us. When I think of those brigades from before, I feel sorry for them”, he says. He also watches very closely what he buys. The price of fish, which Bernils calls jewelry, is one of the common topics on the chef's social media. “Notice that now everyone serves mackerel and sardine. Even in starred restaurants. You won't find wild sea bass anymore”, he assures.

Chef Frank Beltri declared last week to ARA following the closure of his restaurant Slow & Low, that “people want to go out for dinner, but they prefer to do it five times with a 24-euro ticket than just once”. The economy, once again. Beltri has seen at his successful Bar Canyí people ordering two beers and a croquette to share. And like many other restaurateurs, he has heard people looking at the menu and commenting on the prices, making calculations so as not to overreach. That is why he is now thinking of a new, very simple project to adapt to the new trend.