Lluc Crusellas gives a second life to the historic Xocolates Fargas of Barcelona

The chocolatier Lluc Crusellas arrives in Barcelona. And he does so in a historic location: at 16 Pi Street, in the heart of the Gothic Quarter, as he has bought Xocolates Fargas. Crusellas does not intend to change its name; in fact, he respects its legacy so much that he will continue to produce the chocolate shop's signature products, an iconic establishment founded in 1827. The pastry chef from Santa Eulàlia de Riuprimer and 2021 World Chocolate Master had long wanted to land in the Catalan capital, following his Eukarya shop in Vic and having opened another in Andorra. It is true that he had participated in several pop-up shops during the Christmas season, but to open a shop in Barcelona, "everything had to fit," affirms Crusellas, whom we catch just as they are repositioning the shop's sign.

It was through a mutual acquaintance that he learned the current owners of Fargas wanted to sell the business. But it could not be to just anyone; it had to be someone who would respect its essence and "that would make sense," he ensures, while reviewing all the businesses that have opened in the neighborhood that perhaps do not have as much. "It could have been very difficult, but it has been very easy," states Crusellas, who explains that the shop's employee will remain the same. The person who was in the workshop, however, has taken early retirement, but Crusellas has hired Genís Vilarmau, a pastry chef who had already worked with him for six years. Vilarmau is from Lluçanès, from Santa Maria de Merlès, so Crusellas continues with his policy of collaborating primarily with people from his home region or neighboring regions.

"You can breathe chocolate in these streets," says Crusellas with excitement. And it's true, nearby we have the Granja Pallaresa or the Dulcinea. In the Xocolates Fargas workshop, furthermore, cocoa will be roasted, so the scent will permeate the pedestrians, aromas far more desirable than others that often take over the narrow streets of the center. "It was very nice to be able to follow the legacy of the history of chocolate making in Barcelona. I am very grateful to the sector for what it has given me over the years and I want to give it back. That is why we are coming here, we are keeping the name, part of the product, and part of the history," he explains while showing me the original stone mill that they will continue to use to produce the stone-ground chocolate. The new store will incorporate all of Eukarya's products, "it will be an extension of Vic in the capital," he says. From his original animal-shaped 'monas' (Easter cakes), the successful Dubai chocolate made with real pistachios and his succulent nougats. However, it will also incorporate a new product of which he is very proud: 'suïssos' (hot chocolate with whipped cream) and hot melted chocolate to-go that he will sell accompanied by ladyfingers. When we visit him, he is finalizing how the packaging should be. Crusellas justifies the choice to dip ladyfingers instead of other options like churros because "they have a more Catalan and city-like feel." Besides, it saves the fryer and the smell it gives off. "We don't make churros, we are about ladyfingers," he asserts.

Frozen truffles and cat tongues

With the former owners, they established which of Fargas's most iconic products needed to be kept and which did not overlap with Eukarya's offering. Regular customers will continue to find chocolate bars with coffee and salt, the traditional candied marron-glacé, frozen truffles, cat-tongue biscuits that are an impulsive craving, or coffee beans provided by Cafès Magnifico. "It is a classic line that would not fit at Eukarya, but it squares well under this umbrella," he explains. He adds that the stone-ground chocolate made at the Fargas workshop could well make the journey in reverse and be sold in Vic. In addition, in Barcelona, he is incorporating the retail sale of confectionery such as hazelnuts or almonds coated in chocolate.

For the moment, he has not made many changes, just painting and little else. Once the Christmas season is over, he will carry out a more intensive renovation, although he is quite restricted by the fact that it is a protected establishment. Part of the furniture is as well. Enough movement for this pastry chef, who for now wants to consolidate this project and does not plan to grow in 2027. "For now, caution," he says. Of course, he laughs afterwards, because you never know. "We'll see what we do in the future, but for now, calm." Crusellas has just joined the select club of Relais Desserts. A category that gives you international projection and that very few people have in our country. For the moment, however, the next step will be this Thursday afternoon, when the Fargas shop will be inaugurated with this second life in the hands of Lluc Crusellas, just on the verge of turning 200 years old.