We have tasted one of the best rices in Barcelona in a restaurant that is living history

The most veteran readers will possibly remember Will Kane, played by Gary Cooper in High Noon (1952), or John T. Chance, played by John Wayne in Rio Bravo (1959), two of the most emblematic sheriffs in the history of American westerns. These two acting legends masterfully brought to life fictional sheriffs that many Catalans discovered at the cinema or through the first television sets. But today we want to tell you a very real story: that of Pedro Ruipérez, originally from Murcia and adopted by Barcelona.Pedro was an eccentric character and a passionate actor. He liked to dress up as a sheriff, with two toy guns and the characteristic badge of the American guardians of the law. He adapted the word sheriff in his own way, turning it into his nickname and, at the same time, the name of the restaurant he opened with his family in 1959. Initially, it was a small fish and seafood shop, but it soon transformed into one of the most iconic establishments in Barceloneta.When, in 2016, Belinda Wicksteed and Eduardo Iborra acquired El Cheriff, they were very clear that they wanted to preserve Pedro's legacy, maintaining its essence and neighborhood soul, while incorporating a nautical and elegant aesthetic. The ones in charge of materializing this transformation were two of their sons, Teddy and Benji, a photographer and an architect, respectively. Today, this gastronomic temple is run by Alexia Iborra, another of the family's daughters, and her husband, Ferran Bas. In charge of the dining room, we find Adrià Barberà, a young man with a clear vocation for service who enjoys helping diners turn a good meal into a memorable experience. And we can assure you that he achieves it.Let's set aside the battles for a moment to talk about food. We'll go with a sure bet and choose two of Cheriff's most emblematic dishes: the shellfish platter (with Galician clams, mussels, cockles, and razor clams) and a magnificent lobster rice prepared by Ejaz Iqbal, the restaurant's head chef. Twenty-three years ago, he learned the original recipe from María de los Ángeles “Nini”, Cheriff's daughter. It should be easy to find good rice in Barcelona, but reality forces us to admit that it's not always the case. That's why we want to acknowledge the merit of cooking one of the best rice dishes in our region. Cheriff's rice dishes continue to be its great emblem and stand out for their unmistakable flavor, with a characteristic smoky touch achieved thanks to its final finish in the Josper oven.To finish, let's taste a Catalan cream with ladyfingers. We pair the whole meal with a bottle of Iura, a red wine from Priorat made by the Atavus Vines winery in Gratallops.We chat with Adrià so he can explain the latest news from Cheriff: “We defend the essence of Pedro Ruipérez's cuisine by staying out of contemporary culinary trends. We want to keep alive the traditions, recipes, and unique characteristics that have made Cheriff an iconic restaurant”. It's time to leave, but we do it after they serve us, with the porró, a sip of well water. It's a brandy with a secret touch and a story behind it. When you go there, ask Adrià to tell you about it. History, gastronomy, and life in Barceloneta in its purest form.