The paradise restaurant where the Jubanys demonstrate that they are full of future

FormenteraThe sea, on the day I am here, is choppy. And this does not detract one iota from the charm of the restaurant where I am, which is located right on the coast, quite the opposite. We are at Es Còdol Foradat, in Formentera. In a place with great produce and a lot of skill. And needless to say, in an unbeatable location that screams vacation from all four sides. Free time for those of us sitting at the tables, of course, because those who attend us, with a wide smile, know perfectly well what they are doing. This is one of the four (or five, depending on how you count) restaurants Nandu Jubany has on the island, and this year is its seventh season. Very close by, he has El Pecador, a more gastronomic version.

We already know that Nandu Jubany has many restaurants all over. And also businesses that are not restaurants, like his infallible catering (this article is not about that, but those of us in the gastronomic field know that if they have hired his catering for the event we are at that day, it will not only run like clockwork, but it will be of high quality and there will be no shortage of food. I close the parenthesis, but I felt it was fair to put it in writing because it is one of those truths of the sector). As we were saying, the Jubany empire is vast, but it is at Es Còdol Foradat where a fundamental fact can be seen materializing very clearly, and which many restaurateurs would wish for themselves: that the empire has a future. At various events, I had seen the children of Nandu Jubany and Anna Orte, but here you can see them in action. Eudald and Gil move naturally around the dining room. They control the environment, they were born there, of course, but then, there are aptitudes that you either have, or you don't have. They are professional and approachable. And besides, like the whole family, they are hard workers and speak languages. English and Italian. Eudald complains that he needs to perfect his French, because it is a profile of client that does not usually speak other languages and he thinks it would be good for him. I don't know when he will have time, but the parameters we apply to the rest do not apply to this family where everything goes at high speed and on wheels. Whether it's in Calldetenes or the Dakar.

At Es Còdol Foradat, they present the fresh fish of the day on a platter, and discuss all the preparations they can make with it. From sashimi to fried. Eudald arrives with a large lobster, and places it in the center of a table. The family that ordered it looks at it with attention and emotion, especially the children. It's still moving, but not for much longer. It will soon be in the precise hands of the head chef, Fran Jiménez.

Jiménez is in charge of the hot dishes and supervising that everything runs like clockwork in the stainless steel section of the restaurant. Also the other restaurants on the island. He has been working with Jubany for 18 years. And when he's not under the sun of the Pitiüses, he's treading the snow in the Vall d'Aran, at the Baqueira restaurant. He is one of those chefs who likes to be on the go. He likes the restaurant because it renews itself every day. He can also show off with the specials. He explains to me that everything they serve is fresh daily. The fish stock is made every day, the fish arrives every day, and nothing is spared here. Like with the oil, which will always be quality olive oil. The dishes come out of the kitchen very well presented, you can tell there is love and a high level of demand. Not only with the food. Also with the infinity of details like the tidiness of a space by the sea and without physical barriers.

A dangerous sangria

This restaurant has many regulars who order the Russian salad with poached prawns, the mussels, or the tuna with strawberry and wasabi, which is an explosion of flavor. In the Jubany universe, there are iconic dishes that are reinterpreted from restaurant to restaurant, like the waffle dessert. A thousand versions, all of them good. They also have various sangria combinations, very appropriate for where we are. Like one made with Mestres cava, which from my point of view is too dangerous, because it goes down so well. It's a good antidote for demanding customers, like those who get frustrated because they don't have the table they wanted – we already know people would kill to be ten centimeters closer to the sea. To those, I would say be smart, and look at the space just behind the kitchen. It's the area for the clever ones, where you're more relaxed, and the sea views are just as mesmerizing.