Eight tables to enjoy sweetbreads and kidneys in sherry and omelettes made at the moment at the Ninot market

Barcelona“We are just getting the stall started,” says Ton Díaz. In a corner of the Ninot market in Barcelona’s Eixample district, Tonet del Mercat—or just Tonet—has been set up for a few weeks now. It bears Ton Díaz’s name because he is the axis around which this project revolves, based on nose-to-tail cooking, such as offal and other meat by-products. “This week we are adding sweetbreads and kidneys with sherry and onions,” says a thrilled Díaz.

The story begins like this. Ton’s cousin, Marta Morales, owns a meat stall, De Cruz Morales. For some time, she had wanted to repurpose the tasting space she has. And she has a cousin, Ton, who, after years in the trade and managing the dining room at Can MarLau was looking to take over a local business. Marta told him there was no need to keep looking, and that he should manage this space, with eight small tables, next to the stall. “And enjoy it,” says Ton.

He cannot sell fish, seafood, or coffee. “But I have Maldonado pork jowl,” he says proudly. The quality of the product is one of his main pillars. At Tonet del Mercat, you won't find large cuts of grilled meat; that is already covered in the market by Casanovas, which is also owned by his cousin. In fact, at the stall facing Carrer Villarroel is where they sell the most pork, and pork ends up being the star of what is cooked there.

And if we talk about the kitchen, we must mention a proper name: Xavier Solé. We have seen him at Teatro, at Alkostat and, more recently, at Mineral by Oliver Peña. The chef works diligently in the small but well-equipped kitchen. It is not a place where they make you wait, but it is also not a place to go in a hurry. Between Ton and Xavier, they do everything. In return, they will not kick you out if you are quietly lingering over your after-meal coffee. Ton moves with grace among the tables. He has a natural familiarity and closeness with the clientele. With those he knows, and with those he does not.

On Mondays they serve cold dishes, such as cured meats, and from Tuesday to Saturday you will find them from 9 to 5 (like the Dolly Parton song) with the tables ready for you with the hot dishes they write on a blackboard. There are no reservations, you just have to show up. For breakfast, Xavier will make you omelets on the spot, with wagyu blood sausage, sobrassada with cheese or the classic potato and onion. They accompany them with bread and tomato. You will also find sandwiches. If you go for lunch, you will see that the menu is short but succulent. I recommend the meatballs with black trumpet mushrooms and veal snout. The snout looks like squid if we go by looks, but when you put it in your mouth it melts and you realize it is not the classic surf and turf. But for me, the biggest surprise—in a positive way—was the tongue salpicón. A true delight. “It’s like pastrami,” says Ton. And he affirms that it is lucky to have Xavi in the kitchen, who knows how to treat the product. “When the product is good, it should be touched little and you have to know how to do it,” he assures. The noodles in a casserole with pork ribs have also been successful. And now they are starting to work on tripe to offer some good tripe. Thursdays will be the time for creamy rice, such as duck, or veal feet. At the end of the meal, everything ends up costing about 30 euros per head.

The idiosyncrasy of the market means that the opening has not been like those of other restaurants, explains Ton, who has already done four. Markets are living organisms that have their own heartbeat, and for the moment they have had a lot of success. The confidence of his cousin, who has more experience and who "is brave" and has "taken away his fear," also helps. So, following the path that Marta has set for them, this pair of guys has a long way to go with their small empire of pots on the fire and eight well-matched tables.