The Old Mill: one more reason to be proud of the Terres de l'Ebre

UlldeconaThe Terres de l’Ebre are a natural paradise. A national treasure. But, furthermore, they are also a great gastronomic enclave despite having a very low population density. In Ulldecona alone, we find two Michelin-starred restaurants: l’Antic Molí and Les Moles. Today we visit the first one, where what shines brightest is not precisely the star, but the circular economy project that sustains it, the way it positively impacts the territory, and the fact that it not only establishes itself in haute cuisine but also offers options for all budgets. "We take small steps to grow big," says its chef and owner, Vicent Guimerà. They have already taken many steps, because what they offer from their kitchen is revered and applauded by their neighbors and by those who visit it.

The cuisine at l’Antic Molí begins in the garden. A space where what Guimerà will need in the kitchen is grown. Where the compost from the restaurant's organic waste can be reused. And where the chickens are, and the “insect hotel”. Guimerà works hand in hand with the Terram Cooperative. They generate social employment for vulnerable groups and try to find respectful ways to cultivate the land and obtain a sustainable yield from it. A business, in short, respectful of life.

All of this is designed under the Projecte Mans, where local artisans are also taken into account for preparing dishes and vessels. A proposal from start to finish that materializes in the restaurant. The space is large, and is divided into three main areas. Firstly, once you park, the events space appears. Where so many families from the area have held celebrations and weddings. Then, further on, you come across two doors. One takes you to the haute cuisine restaurant, l’Antic Molí, and the other, once you go up the stairs, to l’Amunt Bistró, where they serve quality but simpler menus. In the heart of the building, we find a kitchen that supplies all three spaces. There is Vicent Guimerà, but also the head chef Andrea Ferrater, who joined the project in 2022 and had previously worked in great establishments like Hermanos Torres, Coque or Els Tinars. And in charge of large events, Pedro Laza, who has been working alongside Guimerà for twenty years. Like María José Rasquera, who has also been working with the chef for two decades, in her case as head of the dining room.

A privileged environment

L’Antic Molí is located on the river, surrounded by trees and birds that fly back and forth as the meal unfolds. There, you can see how the plant world is at the center of the proposal of the two tasting menus (which bear the names Orígens and Essència): lamb's lettuce, celery, beetroot, calçots, truffle, artichoke, morels. They always appear in the foreground, and monkfish, caviar or clams, in the background. Except in some cases: eel, prawn or mantis shrimp, Guimerà's fetish ingredient. The mantis shrimp is also the protagonist of a thematic menu that is offered every year and is found in all dishes.

At the gastronomic restaurant, you can order à la carte, in addition to the menus. There you will find prawn rice, duck liver cream, peas with scampi, kid, lamb or sheep. Quality products, in any of the spaces of L’Antic Molí. It is admirable that with a small team they can offer a range that adapts to all types of customers. And this is one of the strong points. Guimerà's school, who already had a restaurant at home – his grandparents had one and his parents had one – is about making people feel comfortable and find what they are looking for. When he was offered to work for a period of time at El Bulli, they told him at home to say no. Weekends were for helping at the restaurant. This hard-working chef has not stopped since he was very young and is a great ambassador for his land. At L’Antic Molí they raise the bar for local gastronomy, without losing their values. They are a destination restaurant for those of us who live far away. And pride for their neighbours.