Ca l'Estevet: the restaurant that proves Catalan cuisine is fantastic

BarcelonaI walk into Ca l'Estevet (Valldonzella, 46) and feel that warm, homey feeling, the kind that even the best interior designer can't create. It's a family restaurant and a landmark of Catalan cuisine in Barcelona, especially in the Raval neighborhood. It's early morning, and the whole family is already working. Pepe Cabot is wearing his navy blue smock to go to Mercabarna. He tells me his mother, Anna Ros, is at La Boqueria market shopping. Pepe's wife, Bea Puig, is printing out the day's menu, while Carla Cabot, the couple's daughter and the future of the restaurant, answers the phone. Even their daughter who doesn't work, Lea Cabot, stops by to drop off an advent calendar for her sister Carla.

Carla is 23 years old, has just graduated with a degree in international relations, and has decided she wants to continue the family business. "I've always loved the restaurant. How lucky to find something that fulfills you, that you enjoy, and that you're good at. I still have a lot to learn, though," she tells me. Meanwhile, her parents look on proudly. Pepe says that little by little, they'll have to start stepping back. Time will tell. She's just turned 60. But she doesn't look like she'll be one of those who retire them, nor does her mother. Now that everything moves so fast, we need people with experience and perspective more than ever.

Let's start with a bit of history. Founded in the late 19th century as Fonda Navarro, the establishment became known as Ca l'Estevet in 1940. At that time, the Ros family also ran another restaurant: Casa Agustí, opened on Bergara Street in 1936. For many years, they shared customers with Ca l'Estevet. But in 1997, the building's owner began a "disgraceful campaign of real estate harassment," explains Pepe. Over the years, they had no choice but to leave. A painful event, one that makes it difficult for them to even walk past the restaurant. They found refuge in Ca l'Estevet to carry on. The business was put up for sale, and they kept the name out of respect, leaving behind photos of illustrious former customers such as Diego Armando Maradona, Montserrat Caballé, and Terenci Moix, a son of the Raval neighborhood, who also frequented Casa Agustí. Ca l'Estevet is a restaurant where the waiters retire. "You have to know which table the regulars like," says Pepe. "Grandma even knows who has their coffee with saccharin," explains Carla. "It's crucial to have a veteran staff; a restaurant with a high turnover is cause for concern," Pepe concludes. In fact, every Sunday a former waiter from Casa Agustí comes to eat with his family. Mr. Pallarès is 90 years old and never misses his Sunday appointment. That says a lot about a place.

Escudella all year round

This restaurant has many signature dishes. One of them is escudella and carne de olla (a Catalan stew). When it's cold, it's always on the menu. Otherwise, they serve it on Wednesdays. There aren't many places where you can find escudella year-round. I ask Pepe what he thinks about the state of Catalan cuisine.

"Catalan cuisine is in a state great. “We haven’t had a table for two weeks. This queue isn’t because we’re doing a superb job—let me add that we are doing a superb job—but because we’re serving Catalan cuisine in the capital of Catalonia. And when people come to Barcelona, ​​they want to eat Catalan food. Not touristy or international cuisine,” he says. He gives me the example of Catalans from outside Barcelona or the many people who come from all over the Catalan Countries.

He explains that they don’t innovate, and that “not changing anything is incredibly complex. Quite a challenge.” I ask if we’ll ever see ceviche at Ca l’Estevet. “God forbid, please no!” he replies. Meanwhile, Rosa, from Pequeños Rosa de la Boqueria, appears and places the order. They joke around, and she leaves in a huff.

At Ca l'Estevet, they defend several positions. Those who favor white tablecloths and those who favor bread and olive oil. "We put olives, bread, and oil cruets on the table. Many restaurants don't. It's the destruction of a sector of bakers, and I don't know how they aren't ashamed. We work with the Vilamala bakery. Jordi does a fantastic job. Then people ask why I charged 2 euros for the bread," he says vehemently. Carla adds that she "has it up to her that the old ways are now considered strange." She's referring to the fact that people are happy and nostalgic to see dishes like fricandó, liver, or brains on the menu.

But then, both Pepe and Carla emphasize their philosophy. "People don't sit down to eat, they sit down to talk. The food is relatively important. The most important thing is the company. It has to be good, easy to digest, and healthy. But giving too much importance to the food is a mistake." A thought worth pondering.

They're opening less and less for Sunday dinners. Their clientele is mostly local. In fact, they're not looking for much exposure. They don't need it. They want to take care of their regular customers. Carla is happy when someone chooses their restaurant to celebrate a special occasion. Pepe sums it up well: "Now everyone sells experiences, we sell memories."