Meritxell Falgueras: "A wine professor tried to sexually abuse me, and the industry protected him so that it wouldn't be known"

BarcelonaI interview the sommelier and communicator Meritxell Falgueras (Barcelona, 1981) in her native neighborhood of Barcelona, which she has named in her novels the New York Soho: the Sants neighborhood. We meet at Bodega Bartolí and afterwards we will go to the family shop, Celler de Gelida, where we will meet her brother Ferran and her father, Toni Falgueras. Meritxell has just published the book Mujeres del vino (Planeta gastro) in which she has written studies, interviews, and surveys to which she has dedicated four years of her life.

Four years to research a thesis that you already suspected.

— Yes, but I thought it was my own idea, a feeling I had had because of my life biography. I thought I was the only one who had suffered uncomfortable treatment in the wine world. I am the daughter of Toni Falgueras, ex-wife of a wine producer, and I had always found myself in unpleasant situations. I thought it was me, and one day I wanted to check if it had also happened to other women who are involved in it. One piece of data I have: 40% of women who are involved in wine, it is hereditary.

Daughters of wine producers.

— Yes, and many in rural areas. It is very difficult for them to ever say anything because they might report their own family. That's why I opted to conduct anonymous surveys. I did four hundred of them.

What uncomfortable situations have you experienced?

— A wine professor, from my Sommelier studies, tried to sexually assault me, and the industry protected him so it wouldn't get out. I explain it in the book. It's easy to know who he is, because he is very recognized in the industry. He is a man who always said that wines smelled like pussy, and when he said it, everyone laughed. He doesn't say it as much anymore. He remains well-positioned in important places. I have realized that the industry protects him, that it hides this behavior. I have also realized that people have not read my book because I have written it very clearly.

In surveys, women, sommeliers, oenologists, winemakers, tell you they have also experienced similar situations.

— There are also those who do not. Àlvaro Palacios' daughter, Lola Palacios, told me that she had never experienced an uncomfortable situation. Testimonials like hers make me very happy. Marta Casas, from Parés Baltà, also told me this. Then there are also women who tell me they haven't had any problems, but then it turns out they are working half-time at the family winery or that they handle communication when they are highly trained. They tell me they have preferred to dedicate themselves to their families. They have made sacrifices when they are prepared to hold executive positions. I say it in another way: I have realized that women have normalized work situations that we should not have accepted. My own mother, from Celler de Gelida, has been nominated for the Isabel Mijares awards, and she has never won. Why not? Because Celler de Gelida is my father. I also think that if I, who always explain everything, who go around with a microphone in my hand, have experienced these situations, I think about the women who live in rural areas, who may not have the means to raise their voice.

You are the mother of a daughter and a son.

— I wrote the book for my daughter. Also because I've gotten older, and with age I've thought about how I've managed to endure all that I've endured. I've been punished because I'm blonde, friendly, and because I'm a communicator. I've always communicated the world of wine differently than it had been done traditionally. I used to do pairings for wearing jeans or when you get divorced. Back then, the sector told me I was doing silly things. Now I see young people communicating wine by advocating for drinking. I've never done that, because I've always linked wine with culture. Since it's culture, I've connected wine with many other sectors, like fashion. And when I did fashion, they told me I was superficial. On the other hand, when they link wine and football, they say it's a very profound pairing.

I follow you, and you are very active. You go to many events in Barcelona.

— I try to go to all of them, because I am part of the wine culture. Wine is a lifestyle. It's my job, and I think I can contribute a lot to it. Now, as a communicator, but before that I worked as a salesperson, as a shopkeeper. What I like most about it all is communication. Think that I am a blend of the degree in Humanities and the master's degree in wine communication. I have been working for twenty-five years promoting wine.

Can I ask you if you can make a living from it?

— I do it as a consultant for El Fuerte luxury hotels. Also as a teacher, and with social media, promoting brands. I worked at Nespresso for fifteen years, and I learned a lot. At Damm I presented the Inedit beer. If one day I can't make a living from all this, I think I can go back to the family shop, at Celler de Gelida.

I return to the book again. There is a lot of data, many graphs. You base yourself on data to present theories.

— Because I didn't want to write a book with imposter syndrome. So, with the studies I've done, I've learned that only 15% of women are CEOs of wineries worldwide, while 20% of oenologists are women.

Is it different compared to other sectors?

— No. The Más Mujeres institute maintains that it is no more serious than other sectors, but what happens in the world of wine is that many events happen at night, at parties, dinners, fairs, and wine has alcohol. It has now become normal to spit out wine, but it wasn't done before.

You were a pioneer, Meritxell, in talking about alcoholism.

— The industry came down on me because they told me I shouldn't talk about it. Sometimes I've had the feeling that I've been ahead of the curve on different topics. Look how many non-alcoholic wines there are on the market now. They're talking about it a lot now! The industry knows that currently you have to drink well and little. In the hotels I advise, non-alcoholic cocktails are a success. And both young and old people ask for them.

The world of wine is scared by the sales figures.

— They always are. They are farmers, who know that their work is tied to bad weather, to trends, and this makes them pessimistic from the start. There are other professional sectors that are more marketing-oriented, they are those who say that everything is going well for them, but the producers, by definition, are always the opposite.

Can I ask you if at home you are one of those who drink wine? Or do you drink it to socialize?

— I don't drink at home. Furthermore, since I turned 40, I've learned that I have to have a glass of wine and one of water, because otherwise I can't cope. When I communicate, I don't like to medicalize wine. I'm not a doctor, so I can't say it's good for the heart. But as a communicator, I can say that a glass of wine is good for a first date, for declaring yourself, for saying things that need to be said while looking each other in the eye. In other words, I rely on emotions and feelings. I know they call me frivolous because I wanted to simplify wine, but that's not the case. I am very well-trained, and I think like the philosopher Nietzsche: superficiality and complexity touch each other. I should also say that I don't drink at home because my partner is an ex-alcoholic. And I drink for work, so at home I seek balance.

Finally, what do you have left to do?

— I would like to move to the big screen. I have projects underway that I can't talk about, but I would like to talk about wine on the big screen.