Eight tables to enjoy sweetbreads and kidneys in sherry and omelets made at the moment at the Ninot market

Barcelona“We are just getting the stall started,” says Ton Díaz. In a corner of the Ninot market in Barcelona’s Eixample district, Tonet del Mercat—or just Tonet—has been set up for a few weeks now. It bears Ton Díaz’s name because he is the axis around which this project revolves, based on waste-reduction cooking, such as offal and other meat derivatives. “This week we are adding sweetbreads and kidneys in onion sherry sauce,” says Díaz, excitedly.

The story begins like this. Ton’s cousin, Marta Morales, owns a meat stall, De Cruz Morales. She had been wanting to repurpose the tasting space she has for some time. And she has a cousin, Ton, who, after years in the trade and managing the dining room at Can MarLau was looking to take over a local business. Marta told him there was no need to keep looking, and that he should manage this space, with eight small tables, next to the stall. “And enjoy it,” says Ton.

He cannot sell fish, seafood, or coffee. “But I have Maldonado pork jowl,” he says proudly. The quality of the product is one of his main pillars. At Tonet del Mercat, you won’t find large cuts of grilled meat; that is already covered in the market by Casanovas, which is also owned by his cousin. In fact, at the stall on Villarroel street is where they sell the most pork, and pork ends up being the star of what is cooked there.

And if we talk about the kitchen, we must mention a proper name: Xavier Solé. We have seen him at Teatro, at Alkostat and, more recently, at Mineral by Oliver Peña. The chef works diligently in the small but well-equipped kitchen. It is not a place where they make you wait, but it is not a place to go in a hurry either. Between Ton and Xavier, they do everything. In return, they won't kick you out if you are quietly lingering over your after-meal coffee. Ton moves gracefully between the tables. He has a natural familiarity and closeness with the customers. With those he knows, and with those he doesn't.

On Mondays they serve cold dishes, such as cured meats, and from Tuesday to Saturday you will find from 9 to 5 (like the Dolly Parton song) the tables ready for you with hot dishes written on a blackboard. There are no reservations, you just have to show up. For breakfast, Xavier will make you omelets on the spot, with wagyu morcilla, sobrassada with cheese, or the classic potato and onion one. They are accompanied by tomato bread. You will also find sandwiches. If you go for lunch, you will see that the menu is short but succulent. I recommend the meatballs with black trumpet mushrooms and veal snout. The snout looks like squid if we go by looks, but when you put it in your mouth it melts and you realize it is not the classic surf and turf. But for me, the biggest surprise –in a positive way– was the tongue salpicón. An absolute delight. “It’s like pastrami,” says Ton. And he affirms that it is lucky to have Xavi in the kitchen, who knows how to treat the product. “When the product is good, you have to touch it little and know your stuff,” he assures. The noodles in a casserole with pork ribs have also been a success. And now they are starting to work on tripe to offer some good callos. Thursdays will be the time for creamy rice, such as duck, or veal trotters. At the end of the meal, everything ends up costing about 30 euros per head.

The idiosyncrasy of the market means that the opening has not been like that of other restaurants, explains Ton, who has already done four. Markets are living organisms that have their own heartbeat, and so far they have been very successful. The confidence of his cousin, who has more experience and who "is brave" and has "taken away his fear," also helps. So, following the path marked out by Marta, this pair of guys has a long way to go with their small empire of pots on the fire and eight well-kept tables.