Between the farewell and the return: story of a restaurateur who continues serving passion dish by dish
Guillem Gubau, after closing Can Castells, has returned to the craft from Mas Solà of Santa Coloma de Farners
- Address: Carrer Mas Solà, C-63, km 23, 17430, Santa Coloma de FarnersMenu: Traditional dishes with a creative touchMust-try: Crispy suckling pig in two preparations with red pepper chutneyWine: Very varied and complete wine listService: Very efficientVenue: A space with a garden inside a hotelPrice paid per person: 45 €
Closing a restaurant is not just about lowering a shutter. It is putting an end to decades of life, of service, of silent sacrifice, and of a way of understanding cuisine. Guillem and his family did so after forty-five years at the helm of Can Castells, in Vidreres. With that gesture, they were not only closing a business: they were leaving behind a legacy built dish by dish, customer by customer, day by day.For two years, Guillem Gubau tried to distance himself from this world. He looked for new motivations, other paths, a life outside of gastronomy and hospitality. But there are professions that are not entirely chosen: they end up finding you. And he didn't find any other that suited him equally. It was then that he accepted the offer to become the maître of the restaurant at Mas Solà, in Santa Coloma de Farners. A space with history, located in a 16th-century Catalan farmhouse, which goes beyond the simple act of eating: it is also a hotel and sports center, a small universe where time seems to move at another pace.“Here what we do is market cuisine, seasonal. We look for the product that is best at each moment”, explains Guillem. This philosophy translates into a proposal that he himself defines as creative, but without ever losing clarity: dishes with a first and last name, recognizable, but worked with precision and with an elaboration that is noticeable in every bite.We attest to this from the very first moment. The croquettes arrive golden and crispy, with a creamy interior that speaks of patience and technique. The fritters, light but full of flavor, confirm that behind every apparent simplicity there is careful work. And it is in this balance, between tradition and intention, where Mas Solà finds its voice. We finish the first ones with some anchovies from L'Escala on focaccia with smoked butter and some artichoke hearts confited with Iberian bacon. “It’s one of the star dishes of the season, we clean the hearts well and chop them. A success!” says Guillem. For the second course, we have two meats and one fish: cod confit with tender garlic mousseline, tomato sofrito, and Santa Pau beans; crispy suckling pig cooked in two ways with red pepper chutney –“We add the sauce during the same cooking process, and that's why it turns out so good”, he says – and Girona veal entrecôte –“We always look for the meat to be from the area”, he recalls.The domain of the room
The desserts, egg flan with toffee, chocolate coulant and three-cheese cake. Today we accompany this meal with a cava from the Oliveda family, a young brut ideal for accompanying any dish. You can tell Guillem enjoys what he does. He commands the dining room and customer interaction with a naturalness that cannot be learned: it's in his blood. With infinite patience, he explains the history of the farmhouse to anyone who asks, almost as if he were part of it himself. “The patriarch of the Solà family is the one who creates everything many, many years ago. He first promotes the swimming pool, the fronton, and the tennis courts. It's not until 1971 that the restaurant is born. Now it is managed by a family that has nothing to do with the Solàs, but they have wanted to keep the name,” he explains. And perhaps it is here where everything fits. Because Mas Solà is not just a place to go to eat: it is a space where stories continue, where each stage adds without erasing the previous one. And in this invisible thread between past and present, Guillem has found his place again. Far from being a final point, his path confirms that, in gastronomy, as in life, there are vocations that never completely close, they only change scenery.