The restaurant that has maintained a Michelin star for 40 years despite being far from Barcelona

"When people talk about the return of 'product-driven' cuisine, it makes me laugh. It's always been like this here; we've never strayed from product-driven cooking." Today, ladies and gentlemen, we're going to Can Bosch because we have to visit a true classic, a place that anyone who loves good food, and who isn't easily swayed by "fleeting snobbery," as Arnau Bosch describes it to me, simply must visit. We're in Cambrils, and I'm captivated by the lovely little trees at the entrance. Joan Bosch, the semi-retired patriarch, ensures they provide a warm welcome and reminds us that every detail matters here.

What is it about Can Bosch that has earned them a Michelin star for 40 years? First and foremost, it's a grand establishment, one of those that are part of Catalonia's gastronomic heritage. These places are like Jenga. It's enough for a few to still robustly maintain the structure of the Catalan restaurant scene, but we've lost enough along the way that we can't afford to lose many more. Luckily, Can Bosch is in good health. The reason? I'd say there are three. There's been a wonderful and gradual generational shift. They have a loyal clientele that never lets them down. And, lastly, many people are fed up with experiments and lengthy explanations and simply want good food. Let's break down each of these pillars.

If we're talking about the top names, we have to focus on Montserrat Costa and Joan Bosch. She just turned 70, and at lunchtime she manages the dining room. She says she's retiring this year. Her husband, to whom she's been married for 44 years, is also still around. He lends a hand when needed. On the days I'm there, his help comes in the form of a 23-kilo tuna. He's brought it in, and now they have to make preserves and a trillion other things so as not to waste a single bone. The veteran couple has left the restaurant's leadership in the hands of their son Arnau, a chef who works and thinks at lightning speed. He has a very well-oiled kitchen team. Such is the case of Albert Cambrón, who has been with the establishment for 23 years. Albert, a skilled pastry chef, has completely embraced the Can Bosch way of working. And what is the philosophy? "My father installed the software "And now they're passing it on to each other," says Arnau. The Joan Bosch DNA, as it's also known, essentially means that we make everything ourselves: bread, sausages, pickles, smoked meats. They'll have good working conditions here, but nobody's too proud to do their best. People can have a team of professional chefs.

And here we move on to the second point: the clientele. "400 people have been loyal to Can Bosch for between 20 and 45 years," says Arnau. He claims that some people don't even know what the menu looks like because they already know what they want. Similarly, in the kitchen, they already know who doesn't like cheese or who doesn't eat olives. Montserrat has worked there since she was 12, and Joan since he was 15. According to Arnau, they haven't received the recognition they deserve. Perhaps things would be different if they had been in Barcelona, he muses, but he also acknowledges that not being there has its advantages. "There, perhaps there wouldn't be the same close-knit atmosphere, nor would so many fun or folksy things happen as here." What Arnau represents is easy to see from the outside. At Can Bosch, you can feel the warmth of a family. It's my first time in the restaurant, and I'm already leaving, hugging and kissing everyone. I even joke around with them. And I think I'll be back soon. This, of course, is not my merit, it is theirs.

And now for the last point: the food. In front of me is an anchovy. Mollusky, perfectly cured, it's drenched with a drizzle of Arbequina olive oil and rests on a pat of butter and a light slice of crystal bread. Simple, right? Well, no. Arnau calls it "complex simplicity." Try putting it in your mouth and see how carefully everything has been considered. The thickness of the butter, the bread. How well everything works together, and how perfectly salted the anchovy is. You won't want any other. The same philosophy applies to other dishes, like the almond soup with Cambrils prawns and pickles, or the fish they prepare in countless ways and of which they are very proud. The rest of the team works in perfect harmony with the role. Rafa Alcántara, the sommelier, knows how to read the people in front of him and can navigate 1,300 wine labels to find the perfect match. Albert's affability also extends to the world of desserts. Balanced and not cloying.

The story of Can Bosch is that of three generations who have given their all. Or, rather, two and a half; the third still has many years to go before captaining the ship, which opened in Cambrils, a place where neither the best nor the best-located establishments were present at the time. That's why they worked twice as hard. And that's why they are in such good health today.