A White-Skinned Priory (II)

"Climate change translates into more hours of sunshine and heat and less rain. If this trend persists and the scientific studies are accurate, one of the biggest turning points for Priorat could certainly be the rise of white wines. We will plant more adapted varieties. And, in this scenario, it seems that white wines are gaining increasing presence and appeal," he reflects. He believes they could represent between 30% and 40% of production in the next 20 years. "White varieties perform very well on slate soils. Planted at altitude, with a low pH, they produce wines with structure and minerality," comments winemaker Jordi Vidal of La Conreria de Scala Dei. Primera Vinya, 100% Garnacha Blanca, is a Vino de Vila that has achieved Vinya Clasificada status thanks to the exceptional qualities of its location, perched atop a hill. Almost twenty years ago, he paved the way for white wines with Les Brugueres. He is aware of all the challenges facing the sector, but he isn't intimidated: "We're on a downward slope globally, but the Priorat DOQ, as a world-renowned region, has a lifeline that keeps us afloat or slows our descent." Vidal believes the crisis can be overcome "if we continue creating expressive wines with a strong identity."

Marc Aguiló started his project 10 years ago. He wasn't intimidated by entering a complex and renowned ecosystem, because he brought his own high standards. Among other wines, he produces Aretheal, a single-varietal white Grenache from the Colls de Porrera, at an altitude of 700 meters. "I took the plunge driven by passion. We need new projects and enthusiasm in Priorat. I've strived to do things right, to create an excellent product," he confirms. He says: "Priorat whites have complexity, but we make them easy to drink and very food-friendly." "We need to recapture the enthusiasm we had 40 years ago. The rhetoric of hard work and sacrifice, along with the crises surrounding us, has extinguished it," warns winemaker Josep Grau, whose winery is in Gratallops. "We don't have the same old-vineyard potential as red wines, but the market is shifting in this direction. It's a rare bird to showcase this style to the world because they don't expect it, but that doesn't mean the future isn't closely linked to it." He produces Carenes, a high-end wine from old vines of Garnacha Blanca, Macabeo, and Taladrado Blanco. "The situation is complicated; the vineyard ecosystem is small, and production is limited. We must regain our enthusiasm," he insists. But he also acknowledges that the change has been profound: "Wines have evolved a great deal, and for the better. What a change in four decades! What we must never lose is our personality," he exclaims.