Tribute to Joan Roca: "unanimously the most beloved active chef in the world"

BarcelonaJoan Roca says he doesn't celebrate his birthdays, but the day he turned 61 he will surely remember him. Yesterday in Leña restaurant in Barcelona by chef Dani Garcia There was an unusual density of chefs per square metre (71 Michelin stars in total). The aim was to pay an emotional tribute to Joan Roca, in the same way that the chef from Malaga had paid tribute to Ferran Adrià, Robuchon, Nobu and Arzak in Marbella. "I am not at the level of all the chefs to whom previous tributes have been paid," said the chef from Girona. In his usual modesty, he stated that the chefs present had "improved" their dishes. The tribute consisted of versions of 21 dishes created by El Celler de Can Roca. An ambitious menu that included creations from Disfrutar, Mugaritz, Atrio, Casa Marcial, Noor, Quique Dacosta, Miramar, Lasarte, Les Cols and Nandu Jubany, among others.

Roca explained sarcastically that when he heard that they wanted to pay tribute to him he thought: "Do they want to retire me? Well, we'll continue for many more years." As usual, he dedicated the recognition to his parents: "We are what we are thanks to them," he said. He admits that he is still excited about his work, that he feels lucky to be a cook, that they have a great time and that his brothers make it the Marx Brothers' cabin. And he identified the ingredient that has brought them to where they are: "The value of friendship, which made it possible for the work to have meaning and strength." new cuisine and also what we did here. Sharing knowledge, helping each other and respecting each other."

Let them learn from them

Dani Garcia, the architect of the tribute, said that he had rarely seen him nervous, and that he had succeeded. Joan Roca is usually a discreet person, and yesterday he was the absolute protagonist. Accompanied by the whole family, the chefs present were not short of praise. We asked the chefs to describe him to us. For the Valencian Quique Dacosta, Joan Roca "is a confidant to whom you express your doubts": "It will be the first of many tributes because he has contributed so much to world gastronomy. But the tribute happens every day in kitchens around the world. Because there are people who don't even know that they are cooking their things."

For Carles Gaig, it is worth highlighting his generosity and that he does things "without any kind of self-interest." "We have a healthy atmosphere. Imagine if the politicians were all on the same page. Let's see if they learn." Mateu Casañas, from Disfrutar, describes it along the same lines: "We all agree here. Joan is empathy, kindness, poise and elegance personified. Together with the whole family, they are capable of thinking beyond their own project and helping others to be better." Precisely when the Disfrutar chefs were ranked first on the 50 Best Restaurants list, the Roca brothers welcomed them to share their experience and explain what they learned from that experience and how to manage the tsunami.

Albert Adrià was Joan Roca's boss when he went to El Bulli despite being several years younger. Roca was twenty-five years old and was already the assistant director of the Girona School of Hospitality. "It is a blessing for gastronomy to have the Roca family, who are the spearhead and a mirror for young people," says Adrià. In fact, the veteran Martín Berasategui explains that "when he was young, you could already see that he was an undisputed leader." He describes him as a "conveyor of happiness" and gives him the title of being "unanimously the most beloved active chef in the world."

Ferran Adrià explains that he met him in 1988. It is almost "40 years of something more than friendship between the Bulli family and that of El Celler," he explains. When asked how he would define Joan Roca, he amends the question. "We would need 50 adjectives to define him. The question is "Tell me a defect," and I would have a hard time finding one. Perhaps he is too good a person in today's world," says the Bullinian.

Elena Arzak highlights his "limitless imagination." And that ultimately the entire Roca family "are very good people": "My father and I love them very much and the world of gastronomy owes them a lot." So good people that Joan Roca's phone must always be busy because everyone calls him to ask for advice if we pay attention to what the chefs are explaining. One of them is Sergio Torres. "He is the person you call when you have a problem that you don't know how to solve. He is a Buddha. He thinks very well and will always help you," he says.

The chauvinism that we lack

Nandu Jubany also talks about his leadership skills: "He's an older brother who brings sanity. He makes the whole family of chefs more credible." For the chef, who usually tells things as they come, in the world of cooking "there is everything." "There are crazy people, braggarts, people who sign up for the photo and shouldn't be there. He makes everything neater. And he makes you have to improve so as not to make a fool of yourself." In addition, Jubany highlights: "They have made us believe that we have very good products and an incredible country. We lack French chauvinism."

For Carlota Puigvert Puigdevall, he is a great teacher who she was able to enjoy when she was doing her internship at El Celler. And she highlights his way of "loving cooking and the territory." Her sister Martina highlights that although El Celler de Can Roca is a "company that has grown a lot, they have their soul rooted in the family, the territory and the city of Girona."

His brother Pitu Roca remembers that "the path continues" and that they live it "with great enthusiasm". Of his brother he highlights "the generosity of putting himself in the place of the other, the ability to listen and teach", and the fortune of "feeling that you have someone very close who will always be with you". For the younger brother, Jordi Roca, he is simply "the best uncle in the world".

At midnight, a spectacular cake made by Christian Escribà appeared. There was a figurine of the cook in which he was nailed, although Roca maintained that the doll was much more handsome than him.