The most 'chic' vintage market in Empordà

VirginsDue to its proximity to France, with a long and deep-rooted tradition of second-hand markets, called flea markets or vide-greniers (attic clear-outs), the Empordà was a pioneer in Spain in organizing this type of market. One of the markets that attracts the most visitors today is held every Sunday in Verges. The secret to its success, according to its organizers, Montse and Marga, from the company 2_emes, is its strategic location, on a esplanade next to a privileged crossroads in the Empordà where the roads from Figueres and France, from Torroella de Montgrí and L'Estartit, and from La Bisbal, Girona and Barcelona converge. "It's a very busy thoroughfare all year round and over time it has become a mandatory stopping point for lovers of antique objects," says Marga. If, in addition to appreciating antiques, you are also fond of hearty breakfasts, you can regain your strength after rummaging through the junk in some of the bars and restaurants that, around the market, offer copious morning menus with pig's trotters, kidneys or snails, among other specialties. For those who prefer quality pastries, their breakfast spot is the bakery-patisserie Espai Dolç, located right in front of the market.

The disrepute of the flea markets of France

The Verges flea market, known as the Encants de l'Empordà, is highly appreciated for the quality of the products sold there: "We don't want junk or second-hand clothes or other items. We are very careful that what is sold here are truly antiques, brocante pieces, and vintage", state the organizers. Those who especially appreciate this particularity of the Verges market are the stallholders and customers from Northern Catalonia, who agree in lamenting that in France, flea markets have lost the prestige of years gone by and now only sell second-hand items. This is what Louis and Daniela, a retired couple from El Voló (Rosselló), who often set up a stall in Verges, say. "When we retired, we decided to sell at flea markets the numerous antiques we collected when we cleared out my parents' house, which was immense. Neighbours also gave us items to sell, such as high-quality white cotton sheets, antique tableware, or furniture," explains Louis. "Many Sundays we fill the van early in the morning, have breakfast in La Jonquera, and arrive in Verges. Now that we are retired, it's better to do this than to stay at home stunned in front of the TV," he adds. He praises the type of customers at the Encants de Verges, many of them with purchasing power, with a second home in Empordà and looking for quality antique pieces.

Like Louis, Ives also thinks that in France flea markets have declined and that the price increase due to current wars has made antiques accessible to very few. Ives and his wife, Violete, from Toulouse, travel many Sundays to the Verges market to sell all sorts of antique objects there, from chairs to costume jewelry. 

Ducati motorcycles for 800 euros and small tables for half an euro

Crocheted tablecloths for half a euro, old Ducati motorcycles for 800 euros, porcelain dolls, farmer's tools that are no longer used today, like a sickle, cameras, lamps with crystal tears, records... The list of items displayed at the stalls is as varied as customer preferences. Karina and Aliya, who run an event planning company for weddings or anniversaries, look for items to decorate celebration spaces: vases, candelabras, cake stands... "We are big fans of flea markets and we know all of them in Catalonia, also the one in Montpellier, but everything there is very expensive. The one in Verges is one of our favorites," says Karina.

Manel, a resident of Empuriabrava and a regular stallholder at the Verges flea market, assures that you can never predict which items will attract buyers. "Every day is different, it's always a surprise," he says. Besides being a seller, he also goes to flea markets as a buyer. "Acquiring old, sometimes unique, pieces is fascinating, it's an addictive vice. Sometimes I've gone sleepless nights because I couldn't buy an item I was looking for," he admits.