La Taverna del Clínic: 20 happy years of simple, straightforward and well-made cuisine

BarcelonaCongratulations. Twenty years ago, a small restaurant opened next to the Hospital Clínic. It has grown over the years, but we'll get there. Now the concept wouldn't seem innovative, but at the time it certainly was. Pepe Simôes had a bar just a few steps away and decided to open a restaurant, something well-made but informal, and call it La Taverna del Clínic. It was a pleasant place, and the menu will sound familiar because it's the model that has triumphed in Barcelona: expertly prepared tapas (nothing like a mediocre potato salad) to share. Pepe Simôes had a chef lined up, but at the last minute, the deal fell through. And that's how, 20 years ago, his son Toni took over the restaurant. And he has grown it into the landmark it is today.

Toni Simôes had just finished working at Rincón de Can Fabes, alongside Santi Santamaria. He admits he learned a great deal there, but that it was also "very intense." So he decided to take a vacation. Just as he was about to leave, his father asked him to take charge of the new project he was about to open. He had time for his vacation, but once September arrived, the action started. Initially, he teamed up with his brother Manu, the sommelier and manager of the dining room. They formed an unstoppable duo until Manu had to step down for health reasons. In this second phase, Toni Simôes carried on and also learned about wine, with a clear desire to always improve. The proof is that La Taverna del Clínic is no longer the small restaurant with good food that was practically just a bar. They expanded, acquiring the adjacent space, and now boast a well-equipped open kitchen, a dining room, and private rooms for more relaxed dining. He's also innovated with other services, such as no longer displaying the cheeses in a glass case, but offering them from a cart just before dessert arrives. "If you see the cheeses, you order them," he says. And it's true. And not only that. Although the restaurant is quite striking, he already has plans for improvements to incorporate once he's finished paying off the loan for the last renovation. And, in addition, he'll be taking over the catering business that his father used to run.

Iconic dishes and a festive menu

At Taverna del Clínic, there are several iconic dishes. They seem unchanged, but they have. They are an example of...They are legendary tubular patatas bravas.These are dishes that have the sauce inside. They've been there from the beginning, and although it might not seem like it, the recipe has been perfected. From the potato to the sauce, they're inspired by some cube-shaped ones Sergi Arola used to make. They've also brought back the trifásico of cod snout, a much-loved dish featuring cod prepared three ways. The confit with pepper is particularly noteworthy. In fact, they've brought this dish back for a special menu designed to celebrate the restaurant's 20th anniversary. It costs 65 euros, and in addition to the two dishes mentioned above, it also includes bread with tomato and acorn-fed ham from the Sierra de Gredos mountains, impressive morels with foie gras cream, duck and mushroom cannelloni, or oxtail with Priorat wine. And a grand finale with the Santa Teresa toast with yogurt ice cream. The toast's bun is homemade, baked in-house. They also offer other set menus and an à la carte menu.

Toni Simôes is a chef who focuses on quality ingredients. He uses top-quality Galician seafood, which is no surprise given his family's origins, as well as locally sourced, seasonal vegetables. All of this is worthy of the Santamaria school of cooking. In 2014, he was recognized as the best young chef in Catalonia by the Catalan Academy of Gastronomy and Nutrition, and he has held a Michelin Guide recommendation and a Repsol Sun since 2015. But his greatest achievement is that 85% of his clientele are local and regular customers. He has recently made some adjustments, such as closing on Mondays as well (previously he only closed on Sundays) unless there is a major fair. This allows him to better balance work and family life and manage the difficulty of finding staff more effectively. His goal is to continue serving "simple, straightforward, and well-prepared" food. And for many years to come.