Il Milione: Lasarte's exclusive menu in which they have explored their own limits
The three-star restaurant has created a proposal that only serves one table per service.


One might think that when a restaurant has three Michelin stars and public recognition, it can already live don't worry and continue doing what they do (and do so well). But what is certain is that conformity is not usually linked to the character of chefs, who are always looking to come up with new ideas. Martín Berasategui and Paolo Casagrande, located at the Monument Hotel, have created a unique menu served at a single table and in a totally privileged space with practically top-down views of the kitchen (I recommend sitting near the glass). Since making this experiential table has been quite an adventure, they have put The Million. This is also what the name is Book of Wonders which tells the adventures of Marco Polo. In 1298, the traveler found himself locked in a cell after being taken prisoner by the Genoese. Paolo Casagrande drew inspiration from his compatriot to create a sensorial menu.
This experience is designed to appeal to all the senses. There's a specially designed sound system to accompany the menu. There are some visual surprises (which we won't reveal) and an extreme attention to detail. Some people have asked me if there are dishes that match those on the Lasarte menu. Well, not even the glasses match. The butter knife was designed just for Il Milione. Each diner has a watercolor painting under their plate inspired by the menu's theme and the locations of its members: San Sebastián, Venice, and Barcelona. The lamps are made from fishing nets, through a Galician project, Proxecto Bolina, which revives craftsmanship from ancient professions. There are live presentations by the chef himself. Or you can see the persimmon-drying technique used in Japan, but also in China and Korea. We'll find influences from Asia, of course; it couldn't be otherwise when we're talking about the Silk Road and the spice trade.
Story and good food
"The story is told from the dishes outward, not from the outside inward," says Juan Carlos Ibáñez, the sommelier and head waiter revered throughout the profession. What does this mean? Well, there's no excessive discourse in each of them. Rather, they aim to create an atmosphere in which everyone can draw their own conclusions from the journey. There's no excessive showmanship, but there are astonishing moments. We won't say any more. It's Lasarte's most daring version without losing his personality of rigor and sobriety.
You can track your meal time using a kind of astrolabe that lets you know at any time what point in your meal you're at. The menu is long but not excessively heavy. The entire table is reserved, so it's a great way for a group (up to eight people) to share this gastronomic journey, showcasing Casagrande's great culinary talent. Of course, this menu isn't affordable for everyone, priced at €490. Wine pairings aside. So, being able to do so is a luxury. Keep in mind that there are people dedicated to this table both in the kitchen and in the dining room, and in the case of this concept, no expense has been spared. They serve both lunch and dinner, and it's estimated that a meal will last around three hours. You have to go with an open mind, like any good adventurer, and that's why I don't want to describe the dishes too much, but there is one that is a sublimation of simplicity and excellence: the croissant with butter and caviar. Marco Polo lived a life full of excitement, but he probably never made a meal of that level in his life.