Casa Fernández, the love song to German breweries serving shrimp trout and 'tête-de-moine'

Barcelona"Bars are churches and we are parishioners," says Javier de las Muelas, owner of Casa Fernández (carrer Santaló, 46). This was the first restaurant, he opened it in 1989, and today, after a slight renovation, he calls all the press to present this establishment that continues to preserve the essence of always. He explains that one of the "genius ideas of the interior design people" was to suggest removing the iconic mural from the Santaló street restaurant. Obviously, the restaurateur refused. It is the work of designer Carlos Rolando. A benchmark who died in 2016. "Not even talking about removing the mural, it's a sign of identity. We are in an era when establishments are Port Aventura style, everything is papier-mâché. We want to give value to what is already 37 years old," De las Muelas states emphatically. And he recalls that establishments must have a soul, be close and be part of the daily lives of the people of their daily routine. For him, they are one of the antidotes to one of the great evils of our society: "I like to insist on it because one of the big problems we have is loneliness".

Today, in addition to the reform, Javier de las Muelas presents another novelty. His middle son, Borja, is fully joining the company. He already managed the prepared cocktails division, known as ready to drink, and now he is also part of the rest of his father's universe, known for the Dry Martini cocktail bar. Borja de las Muelas came from the world of multinational companies, such as Henkel, Pescanova, or Unilever. "I was born almost with the place and my first work experience was here at 13 years old," says Borja de las Muelas, who recalls how his hand trembled when serving wine. For him, the macaroni, the bravas, and the assortment of small hamburgers from Casa Fernández are part of his childhood.

The origin goes through Tibidabo

40 years ago, in 1986, De las Muelas opened Nick Havanna and it became a phenomenon. As a result, they invited him to Tibidabo to give ideas for the park. Right there, they offered him to lead the park's gastronomy. He accepted and began to travel to get to know the parks around the world. And he discovered Munich, which he says is a city that "is part of his DNA". There he fell in love with beer halls. And when he returned, he found the place, next to his other cocktail bar, Gimlet. The space was full of photos of cardinals and popes and pressure cookers were sold there, explains the bartender. In this project, he decided to pay tribute to German beer halls and their long tables, and to pay homage to his mother, Carmen Fernández. "Putting such a unique surname was giving value to the concept of a dining room where you can go several times a week," he argues.

The gastronomic proposal is as eclectic as De las Muelas is. "They are little mischievous things. I like to apply my tastes, which sometimes people don't understand." There is tête-de-moine cheese, fondue croquettes, shrimp fritters, very crispy bravas, papas arrugadas or cazón en adobo. Also many schnapps (German brandies, like the famous Jägermeister), with which he makes us toast. Despite the presence of his son Borja, Javier de las Muelas is seen with a lot of drive, and he seals it with a "I hope to die with my shoes on".