Agreste 2.0 in the Port Vell of Barcelona

When Fabio and Roser met while walking the Camino de Santiago, they would never have imagined that life had an even more exciting journey in store for them. They probably wouldn't have said at first that they would open a restaurant together in Barcelona in 2016: Mala Hierba, which would end up being a landmark in the city. Nor did they plan to change its name years later to become Agreste, and even less so that, over time, they would create a second version within a five-star hotel in Port Vell. Chef Fabio Gambirasi and Roser Asensio, who have already made a name for themselves on the local gastronomic scene, are now responsible for giving a boost to the kitchen at Hotel Serras. Taking advantage of the fact that they had to make reforms in which they still live, in Agreste, in the highest part of the city, they have packed their suitcase full of ideas and talent and have settled in a modern and elegant space where little by little they are displaying their best cuisine. They have temporarily left the mountain to move to the sea and grow this new project that maintains its essence, but is now called Agreste Mar.

Seven years have passed since we met them at their house, in Mala Hierba, and that we had a special connection. It must be because of their simplicity, friendliness and kindness that, mixed with the gastronomic level they offer in the restaurant, make the clients follow them wherever they go and almost become part of their family. "Our personality is the same as always and the way of understanding the kitchen too, now we have only changed house," they both explain. At Agreste Mar they offer a tasting menu for €100 in which you can try some dishes that are not on the menu, but we prefer to make our own selection, letting Roser, who knows a lot about it, guide us along the way. We decide that the first steps will be taken by sharing some superior anchovies with gorgonzola and lemon peel, and the stratospheric sea urchins with coffee sauce. They also suggest that we share two of the three pasta proposals they offer on the menu: the parmesan ravioli with butter and sage, and the Tagliarini artisans with morels stuffed with sausage and broad beans. We were already aware that Fabio is a culinary genius in general, but you have to try his pasta to realise that this label is not an exaggeration and fits perfectly with reality. A true wonder that some clients have asked him to turn into a menu: "They asked me for a pasta tasting menu," he says with a laugh, and we think that hopefully one day it will become a reality.

Two Wilds

We also share the second courses: Arturo Sánchez's Iberian dish in Milanese, béarnaise sauce and camagrocs, and a hare in the Royal with truffle. We only have room for one of the desserts: the Paris Brest with popcorn and raspberries, a puff pastry cake filled with cream that is finger-licking good. We finish the bottle of Trossos Vells 2020, from the Alfredo Arribas winery (DO Montsant) and, taking advantage of the fact that the pace of service has already slowed down, we have dessert with Fabio and Roser. "We are doing very well here, the hotel has a powerful infrastructure and the atmosphere is very pleasant. However, we are very excited about the renovation of Agreste," they agree. "Catalan and Italian cuisine live off the sea and the mountains and we will be able to differentiate them with two restaurants," they explain. So, the good news is twofold: we have five-star cuisine by the sea and soon also in the mountains.