Seven alpine ski resorts for skiing or snowshoeing (despite the lack of snow)

BarcelonaThe silence is only broken by the sound of skis sliding over the snow. You find yourself in the middle of a winter landscape that invites you to lose track of time. The cold air fills your lungs and, in front of you, a sea of ​​snowy fir trees invites you to take a walk. In an increasingly fast-paced world, Nordic skiing is about endurance, it is calm, it is about getting back to basics.

Far from the hustle and bustle of the alpine ski slopes, here there are no ski lifts or long queues for the chairlift. Just you, the snow and the forest. That's Nordic skiing: an intimate experience with nature, a slow and rhythmic way of moving forward, in which the effort is both physical and mental.

The energy that drives you is your own strength and the path is traced with each step. Instead of going down steep slopes, you need to move in harmony and propel yourself with each step. The skis are long and narrow, light and agile, and the boot is only attached at the front, leaving the heels free to move forward naturally. The classic style follows the traces marked in the snow, in a gentle and hypnotic swing. The skating style, on the other hand, is more athletic and fast, with a movement reminiscent of ice skating. But, whether at a leisurely pace or at a competitive pace, the main attraction of Nordic skiing is the same: contact with nature.

"Cross-country skiing is more demanding, as it requires a better state of fitness, but it can be adapted according to the physical condition of each person," says Imma Obiols, a technician at Tot Nòrdic, the association of Nordic ski resorts in Catalonia, which brings together the seven resorts that keep this sport alive in the country.

They don't have large infrastructures or large crowds, but they do offer circuits laid out in the middle of forests and valleys of great beauty, as well as equipment rental services and classes for all levels. Obiols also explains that "with the lack of snow in recent years, the stations have also adapted and offer routes to do with snowshoes, or even hiking. When there is no snow at the base of the station, they give the option of going out with the snowshoes hanging on your back until you have to put them on," he explains.

"Each station has its own personality. Some are more technical, others more family-oriented, but they all share the same philosophy: respect the environment and enjoy winter without rushing," explains Obiols. We discover the activities offered by each of the seven stations in the Catalan Pyrenees despite the lack of snow in recent years.

Lles de Cerdanya

If you want to ski where Kilian Jornet started, head to the Lles de Cerdanya resort. At the base you'll find the Cap del Rec refuge, where Jornet's father, Eduard Jornet, was the ranger for a few years. Located at an altitude of 1,960 m, it is the perfect starting point for short and long excursions, as the resort, when there has been enough snow, can connect with Aransa and offer up to 67 km of slopes, making it one of the largest cross-country skiing areas in the Pyrenees. "When we are short of snow, we make artificial snow, but we only go to the beginner and beginner slopes," admits Àngel Gironès, responsible for equipment rental at the resort. As for snowshoes, "we offer the routes that pass through the shadiest areas, such as Clot de Sassà, where snow accumulates when the wind blows," he explains. However, he admits that they have had two bad years and have only been able to open a maximum of 14 km of slopes and connect with Aransa on two weekends.

Aransa

Also in Cerdanya, Aransa offers up to 32 km of cross-country skiing circuits that run through extraordinary forests and offer spectacular views of the Sierra del Cadí, the Cerdanya Valley and Alt Urgell. With altitudes between 1950 and 2150 m, the Aransa slopes are ideal for all levels. The connection with Lles makes the route uninterrupted when the snow permits, offering a unique skiing experience. The base of the resort is the El Fornell refuge, perfect for resting and enjoying good food. "We now have the beginner and initiation circuit open and we can do the snowshoe routes at high altitude," explains Ferran Savin, director of the station, who invites people to enjoy the station "with good boots and good poles, since the trails are signposted and there are no lost or dangerous ones. It is a good way to do controlled hiking. In addition, Aransa is the gateway to the Pera lakes, a unique place surrounded by fir and black pine forests, where the glacial landscape will leave you speechless.

Guilos-Fontanera

Still in Cerdanya, we find a third resort with a wild landscape, surrounded by forests and spectacular views of the Cerdanya valley. These are the ingredients you will find in Guils-Fontanera, a Nordic ski resort located just sixteen minutes from Puigcerdà and which can offer up to 45 km of slopes that cross black pine and birch forests when there is enough snow. Get ready to enjoy spectacular views of Canigó and Puigmal. From Pla de Fontanera, you will find routes for all levels that will allow you to enjoy cross-country skiing or snowshoeing in complete peace.

Tuixent - La Vansa

It is located on the north face of the Port del Comte massif and has magnificent views of Pedraforca and the Sierra del Cadí. The Alt Urgell region, next to Solsonès, is easy to get to, as it is very close to Central Catalonia. These mountains, which are pastures in summer, become an area with one of the best offers for snow sports in winter. When the resort is fully operational, you will find nearly 30 km of circuits of various levels for cross-country skiing and marked routes for snowshoeing. Did you know that you will be skiing along what was the usual route of the Caracremada maqui and the passage of some trementinaires itineraries of the Vansa and Tuixent valleys?

Saint John of the Moor

Located between Alt Urgell and Pallars Sobirà, this is one of the most emblematic (and oldest) ski resorts in the Pyrenees, part of the Alt Pirineu Natural Park. Its charm lies in the variety of cross-country skiing circuits that run through lush forests of fir, birch and black pine, offering wild and peaceful landscapes. The Basseta refuge, the central point of the resort, is the heart of many activities throughout the year, from Nordic skiing to snowshoeing routes in winter, and hiking in summer.

Virós Vallferrera

It is a small resort but surrounded by a wild and spectacular landscape, also within the Alt Pirineu Natural Park. The Gall Fer refuge, located at 1,700 metres above sea level, is the nerve centre of this resort. Manel Pérez, manager of Virós Vallferrera, admits that "the last two years have been very complicated with the lack of snow" and that "we have to rethink winter activities". "We have snowshoeing routes, but we don't find snow up to 2,400 metres and from the refuge it is very long and only suitable for experts." However, he encourages people to enjoy the forests in the area and have a good meal with impressive views of Montsent de Pallars and Puig d'Ares.

Tavascan

And yet another third station in the heart of the Alt Pirineu Natural Park, a place where you can enjoy a complete winter experience, since, in addition to the 12 km of Nordic ski circuits, both classic and skating, Tavascan is also a destination that offers alpine ski slopes. Its base is the Pleta del Prat refuge, an emblematic place where you can rest and enjoy nature.