When dressing like an adult starts at a young age

BarcelonaAt Marta's house, with two girls, clothes haven't been a big expense. Throughout their childhood, they've made use of everything that friends' or cousins' daughters no longer needed. It's come to them through the seams, and that's why, even as little girls, both have been able to choose what they like and discard what they don't. They only bought the most basic items, like leggings, which are difficult to pass down. Both the older girl, 12, and the younger one, 8, have agreed on one thing for the past few years: they haven't worn skinny jeans because, apart from not finding them comfortable, they arrived just as wide-legged or flared trousers were back in style.

Although shopping hasn't been a regular family activity, fashion has also influenced and shaped their style: the younger one is quick-witted enough to wear things that can be combined in a "not very childish" way, while the older one has begun to discover the world surrounding what is now called outfitsSmall in stature and living in a village with little access to clothing stores, her foray into the world of fashion has begun with the lines teen from major brands, where you can find clothes in your size with patterns and styles typical of teenagers (or even adults).

The emergence of 'teen' lines

The lines teen These lines have been part of a strategy that has spread among large chains in recent years to meet the needs of both children's and adult clothing consumers. Mango, for example, launched its children's line in 2021 and has experienced significant growth in just a few years. It has become popular among teenagers and pre-teens who want to dress to look older, a trend that also affects younger sizes: children's patterns and designs seem to be disappearing. Clothing is increasingly moving away from children's motifs and styles and becoming more like adult clothing.

"If brands are investing in these lines, it's because there is demand, which is self-reinforcing," says Ana Isabel Jiménez-Zarco, professor of economics and business studies at the Open University of Catalonia (UOC). Jiménez-Zarco notes that adolescence has always been a time for imitating adult behaviors and styles, but acknowledges that this has now shifted to between the ages of ten and twelve, especially among girls. "They undergo a huge change and begin to copy the behavior of boys and girls; clothing is one way they express this," says Jiménez-Zarco.

The transition to secondary school, a change

Mar and Dídac are also examples of this evolution. In primary school, they wore clothes without much thought, but entering secondary school at age twelve brought a radical change. Their mother explains that throughout secondary school, Mar has gone through different phases, evolving from shopping at large chains to being more selective now that she's finishing her pre-university studies. But in previous years, she wanted to completely revamp her wardrobe from one year to the next because she disliked what she owned and nothing looked good. "Many of my friends and I would change our style every year because we kept up with the trends," says Mar, who during this time used secondhand clothing platforms to make use of items in her wardrobe that she no longer wanted.

Dídac is about three years younger, but he also knows exactly how he wants to dress: "casual but elegant clothes, and with coordinated colors." He has identified the different styles in the class (otakus, posh kids, canis…) and acknowledges that because of him, theoutfit It's important. "Football shirts give you an aura, they make you interesting," he says. He doesn't want to look like a child, but an adult, and that's why he doesn't want to buy clothes in the children's section. The fashion world knows this, and that's also why size 16 has disappeared from most catalogs or has mutated into XXS.

Brands that go against the grain: the case of Bobo Choses

This context is found primarily in large clothing brands owned by major textile groups, but there are some brands in the market that remain true to a specific philosophy that sets them apart and defines them. This is the case with Bobo Choses, which presents its collections each year through a story that accompanies the entire season's universe. "For us, clothing is a tool for storytelling, play, and dreaming," says Adriana Esperalba, CEO and founder of the Mataró-based brand. That's why they stand out for a style full of colors, prints, and easily identifiable shapes. "Creativity is one of the brand's pillars, as are sustainable and ethical production processes."

They describe themselves as having an "artistic, daring, and original" style that departs from both classic children's and adult patterns. In this sense, Esperalba believes there is indeed a trend toward "miniature adult clothing," but also thinks it has always existed. However, their brand aims to reflect the idea that childhood is "a unique stage in life," and therefore prioritizes comfort and imagination. "The goal is to create pieces that respect and foster children's identity, with a timeless design that doesn't depend on fleeting trends," says the founder of Bobo Choses. Bobo Choses dresses boys and girls up to size 12/13, thus covering a significant part of pre-adolescence, but they are also aware that this age is "transitional" and propose a "bridge" style between children's and adult fashion. "We understand that there is a certain rupture and discovery of a new identity," says Esperalba, "it has happened to my children and now they want to wear Bobo dresses again from time to time."

When brands come into play

Mar and Dídac's mother also observes other subtle trends in their clothing choices. Her children want a lot of clothes so they don't repeat an outfit throughout the school week. They see it as a status symbol, and related to this, throughout high school, they've started demanding designer brands, especially for sportswear. "If they have Decathlon clothes, they try to hide it, but if they can, they want to wear Adidas, Nike, or whatever brand," laments the mother, who sees it as yet another consequence of the aesthetic pressure that children of this generation face and the importance placed on physical appearance, which also extends to accessories.

But paying attention to brands isn't exclusive to teenagers; it happens at much younger ages. Jiménez-Zarco places the age of ten as the point at which children become aware of their existence and meaning, justifying the "sense of belonging" they entail. "If you want to be part of a group, you wear and use the brands that identify it," she emphasizes, "a brand is a code of belonging." Núria Aragonès, a professor at the University of Barcelona and an expert in fashion history, also points to "social validation" as key to understanding the brand phenomenon. She notes that it has occurred in many previous stages of fashion history and emphasizes that in children, it's because they find it easy to recognize a logo, colors, and even associate them with a concept "that represents what they want to be." "In the 80s, Levi's and Nike began to be identified with a youthful and rebellious lifestyle," Aragonès exemplifies. He adds that back then these brands were perhaps identified with an urban tribe, but now, in the age of globalization, social media reigns supreme. "The idea, however, remains the same: to create community," Aragonès explains, "where you can feel excluded or included."