Meritxell Falgueras: "A wine professor tried to sexually assault me, and the industry protected him so it wouldn't come out"

BarcelonaI interview the sommelier and communicator Meritxell Falgueras (Barcelona, 1981) in her native neighborhood of Barcelona, the one she has called in her novels the New York Soho: the Sants neighborhood. We meet at Bodega Bartolí and later we will go to the family store, Celler de Gelida, where we will meet her brother Ferran and her father, Toni Falgueras. Meritxell has just published the book Mujeres del vino (Planeta gastro) in which she has written studies, interviews, and surveys to which she has dedicated four years of her life.

Four years to investigate a thesis that you already suspected.

— Yes, but I thought it was my own idea, a feeling I had had based on my life's biography. I thought I was the only one who had suffered uncomfortable treatment in the wine world. I am the daughter of Toni Falgueras, ex-wife of a wine producer, and I had always encountered unpleasant situations. I thought it was me, and one day I wanted to check if other women who work in this field had also experienced it. One piece of data I have: 40% of women who work in this field, in wine, it is hereditary.

Daughters of wine makers.

— Yes, and many in rural areas. It is very difficult that they have never said anything because perhaps they would denounce their own family. That is why I opted to conduct anonymous surveys. I did four hundred.

What uncomfortable situations have you experienced?

— A wine professor, from my Sommelier studies, tried to sexually assault me, and the industry protected him so it wouldn't come out. I explain it in the book. It's easy to know who he is, because he is very recognized in the industry. He is a man who always said that wines smelled like pussy, and when he said it, everyone laughed at his jokes. Now he doesn't say it as much. He continues to be well-positioned in important roles. I have realized that the industry protects him, that it hides these behaviors. I have also realized that people have not read my book because I have written it very clearly.

In surveys, women, sommeliers, oenologists, winegrowers, tell you that they have also experienced similar situations.

— Others do not. Àlvaro Palacios' daughter, Lola Palacios, told me that she had never experienced any uncomfortable situations. Testimonies like hers make me very happy. Marta Casas, from Parés Baltà, also explained it to me. Then there are also women who tell me they haven't had any problems, but then it turns out they are working half-time at the family winery or handling communications when they are highly trained. They say they have preferred to dedicate themselves to their families. They have made sacrifices when they are prepared to hold management positions. I put it another way: I have realized that women have normalized work situations that we should not have accepted. My own mother, from Celler de Gelida, has been nominated for the Isabel Mijares awards, and she has never won. Why not? Because Celler de Gelida is my father. I also think that if I, who always explain everything, who go around with a microphone in hand, have experienced these situations, I think about women who live in rural areas, who perhaps do not have the means to raise their voice.

You are a mother of a daughter and a son.

— I wrote the book for my daughter. Also because I've gotten older, and with age I've thought about how I've been able to endure everything I've endured. I've been punished because I'm blonde, friendly, and because I'm a communicator. I've always communicated the world of wine differently than it had been traditionally done. I used to do pairings to wear with jeans or when you get divorced. Then the industry told me I was doing silly things. Now I see young people communicating wine by advocating for the drink. I've never done that, because I've always linked wine with culture. Since it's culture, I've linked wine with many other sectors, such as fashion. And when I did fashion, they told me I was superficial. On the other hand, when they link wine and football, they say it's a very deep pairing.

I follow you, and you are very active. You go to many events in Barcelona.

— I try to go to everyone, because I am part of the wine culture. Wine is a lifestyle. It's my job, and I think I can contribute a lot. Now, as a communicator, but before I was a salesperson, a shop assistant. What I like most about it all is communication. Think that I am a blend of the degree in Humanities and the master's degree in wine communication. I have been working for twenty-five years spreading the word about wine.

Can I ask you if you can make a living?

— I do it as an advisor for El Fuerte luxury hotels. Also as a teacher, and with social media, promoting brands. I worked at Nespresso for fifteen years, and learned a lot. At Damm I presented the Inedit beer. If one day I can't make a living with all of this, I think I'll be able to go back to the family store, to Celler de Gelida.

I return to the book again. There are many data, many graphs. You base yourself on data to present theories.

— Because I didn't want to write a book with impostor syndrome. So, with the studies I've done, I've learned that only 15% of CEOs of wineries worldwide are women, while 20% of winemakers are women.

Is it different compared to other sectors?

— No. The Más Mujeres institute maintains that it is no more serious than other sectors, but what happens in the wine world is that many events take place at night, at parties, dinners, fairs, and wine contains alcohol. Now spitting out wine has been normalized, but it wasn't done before.

You were a pioneer, Meritxell, in talking about alcoholism.

— The industry came down on me because they told me I shouldn't talk about it. Sometimes I've felt that I've been ahead on different topics. Look how many non-alcoholic wines there are on the market now. There's a lot of talk now! The industry knows that nowadays you should drink well and little. In the hotels I advise, non-alcoholic cocktails are a success. And they are requested by both young and old people.

The wine world is scared with the sales figures.

— They always are. They are farmers, who know that their work is linked to bad weather and trends, and that makes them pessimistic from the outset. There are other professional sectors that are more marketing-oriented, those who say everything is going well for them, but producers, by definition, are always the opposite.

Can I ask you if at home you are one of those who drink wine? Or do you drink to socialize?

— I don't drink at home. Besides, since I turned 40, I've learned that I have to pour myself a glass of wine and one of water, because otherwise, I can't handle it. When I communicate, I can't stand "medicalizing" wine. I'm not a doctor and therefore I can't communicate that it's good for the heart. But as a communicator, I can say that a wine is good for a first date, for declaring yourself, for saying things that should be said looking each other in the eyes. That is, I base myself on emotions and feelings. I know they tell me I'm frivolous because I wanted to take the complexity out of wine, but that's not the case. I am very well-trained, and I think like the philosopher Nietzsche: superficiality and complexity touch. I must also say that I don't drink at home because my partner is an ex-alcoholic. And I already drink for work, so at home I look for balance.

To finish, what do you have left to do?

— I would like to move to the big screen. I have projects underway that I can't talk about, but I would like to talk about wine on the big screen.