Mireia Torres Maczassek: "We will launch a sparkling wine that is unique in the world and will not be part of the Cava DO, but will be deeply rooted in the region."

Pacs del PenedèsWinemaker Mireia Torres, daughter of Miguel Torres of Familia Torres, explains the new projects she's working on this week as the winery announced a new general manager, Fabrice Ducceschi, who has extensive experience managing family businesses dedicated to consumer goods both in Spain and in Portugal and France. This will be the first time he will lead a wine and sparkling wine company. Mireia is behind the Natureo project, a dealcoholized wine industry currently experiencing a boom. Perhaps it helps that consumption of alcoholic wines is declining to the point that global consumption by 2024 (214.2 million hectoliters) will be at its lowest level since 1961.

Partially or fully dealcoholized wines have been governed by European Union regulations for years, which have stipulated that these wines cannot use Protected Designations of Origin (PDO) or Protected Geographical Indications (PGI). At a time when the debate on designations of origin is more relevant than ever, winemaker Mireia Torres announces the launch of a new sparkling wine, which will not be part of the Cava DO, but rather "deeply rooted in the land."

How did your Natureo non-alcoholic wines begin and where are they now?

— Natureo began in 2008 as a pilot project in collaboration with the Areas de Autobahn group, which commissioned us. We opted for a physical method called Rotating Cone Column, which uses a gas-liquid contact column for the selective separation of volatile compounds in liquids. This technology allows us to recover more than 95% of the original aromas of dealcoholized wine without exposing it to high temperatures, as it works with low-temperature steam. I lead this project with oenologist Montse Rosell.

Can you explain to me specifically what it consists of?

— Wine is first made like any other, from harvested grapes, and then, using this technology, we extract the aromas at low temperatures thanks to the steam produced by the wine itself, and we store them. Naturally, because we are very strict with respect to the original aromas. Two years ago, the European Union approved regulations for dealcoholized wines, but the winemaking practices are not entirely defined.

How many do you have on the market now?

— The new feature is that the rosé sparkling wine will now begin to be sold in Spain. We've had it made for two years, but we weren't distributing it; now we are. We're still consolidating categories. In total, we make six non-alcoholic wines and two sparkling wines. We have Viñedo Sol 00, Sangre de Toro Black 00, Natureo White (two different ones), Natureo Rose, Natureo Black, and two sparkling wines: one rosé and one white.

Do non-alcoholic wines represent significant sales?

— Yes, and they're booming. More than ever. From 2015 to 2024, non-alcoholic wines grew globally by 14% in volume and 18% in value. But now, looking ahead to the next five years, they're expected to grow by 10% in volume and 12% in value. It's a category that's still relatively small but is growing because there's an exponential consumer segment demanding it. In our case, dealcoholized wines already represent 10% of our wine and sparkling wine sales.

What do you think is the reason for such rapid growth?

— There are many reasons, all of which can explain this phenomenon. Anti-alcohol policies, potential tariff increases on alcoholic wines, which could also boost their popularity because they won't be affected if they don't contain alcohol, or health messages against alcohol consumption, even though drinking in moderation is healthy. There's also driving regulations or the fact that Generation Z wants a healthy life, with less alcohol. We know that this generation's alcohol consumption is lower than others. All of these reasons could contribute to this. And the fact is that statistics from the International Organization of Vine and Wine (OIV) clearly indicate that consumption has decreased.

How much does a Natureo cost?

— White wines, between 8 and 9 euros. They can't be cheaper because they involve a complex production process; also because there is a 20% loss in the process. They can't be any cheaper. And beyond all the reasons I've just told you about the boom in consumption, I'd also add that we're in a time of many changes; apart from the global situation, there's also a lot of experimentation in the market: kombutxa tea and grape beers are appearing. It's a boiling point of new products, and we'll have to see which ones are most successful. However, what we do know is that non-alcoholic wines are growing and are established.

You have to call him wine? Veye to say, should we use this word? I say this because sommeliers like Josep Roca and Xavi Nolla has spoken out against it.

— I'm not one to contradict them. My point of view as a winemaker is that the process is the same; we just separate the aromas first, the alcohol second, and then we incorporate the aromas again. I think that if it's not done the way I'm telling you, respecting the original aromas, perhaps we shouldn't call it wine at all.

The name of Natureo It was his brother's idea.

— Yes, it's a family project, a winery project. A research project directed by me and on which we all work together.

We talked about Familia Torres' project with recovered grape varieties. Is Forcada one of the varieties that gives you the most joy?

— We could put it that way. It's a productive variety, one that the Penedès DO has already approved in its regulations, and it treats it like any other white variety. A few years ago, we planted it in Jean Leon, and next year we'll launch a brand-new sparkling wine from the Forcada variety. It won't be affiliated with the Cava DO, but I want it to be firmly rooted in the region. And right now, I can't say where it will be affiliated because we're still in negotiations. It will be a pioneering sparkling wine because no one has ever made a sparkling wine with a Forcada before.

Does the forcada withstand the effects of climate change well?

— Yes, and that's why I've presented it and shown it to the producers of all the sparkling wines in the Penedès region. It's a foundation with which we want to recover the past to help us in the future. You already know that my father started it all after some classes he gave in France, and since then it's an initiative we haven't stopped working on. The forcada adapts well to high temperatures, is productive because it matures late and vigorously.

Finally, I ask you about the news I reported this week: the appointment of a new general manager to Familia Torres, Fabrice Ducceschi.

— Over the last year and a half, we've had two CEOs, Miquel Miró and Xavi Armengol, who have complemented each other and done a very good job, making sound decisions to stabilize the company's financial results. We live in a complex world, with many changing consumer trends, and we strive to be a sustainable family business over time. And we are mindful of social, environmental, and economic sustainability.

With the expression economic stability of the winery, does that mean there were losses?

— No, our company's results are performing well. We've made good decisions that have had the support of the board of directors, and the family is very close. The selection of the new CEO also benefited from the full support of the board.