Vienna, beyond Schnitzel and the classic Sacher cake

Vienna (Austria)Vienna, a cultural capital for lovers of music, history, and food. It's a well-rounded destination, now even more so in the autumn and Christmas season, which embraces the entire city, as it's surrounded by nature. From a gastronomic point of view, there are two crown jewels that command much of the attention: Schnitzel and Sacher Torte. Regarding the large sheet of glazed meat, it's important to remember that it's made everywhere, and for it to be properly cooked, the glaze must bubble and the meat must be very thin and uniform. This means that whoever prepared it pressed it firmly into the pastry. As for Sacher Torte, the chocolate cake with apricot jam, you can certainly eat it at the "official" bakery, which shares the same name and where they make 360,000 cakes a year, but the dessert can be found everywhere and in any of the city's charming cafes. I would prioritize trying it that way. Right next to Sacher, for example, is Gerstner KuK Hofzuckerbäcker, a good alternative. Another option is Conditorei Sluka, on the pedestrianized, shopping, and very central Kärntner Straße. Next door is the best I tried of them all: KuK Hofzuckerbäcker L. Heiner. A wonderful choice for trying a monumental strudel, or, if apple pie doesn't appeal to you, anything that catches your eye. Everything is exquisite. You could also be adventurous and try a Viennese pastry that comes in the shape of a cube, is pink, and has a maraschino cherry on top: the punschkrapfen. This was originally a dessert made from leftovers, often flavored with rum, and has since become a distinct character and a favorite among Viennese palates. If you've noticed, two KuKs have appeared. It's an acronym for... kaiserlich und königlich, which means "imperial and royal". It means they were official suppliers to the Habsburgs.

If you're tired of sweets, there are two centrally located spots where you can stop for savory canapés, a staple of the Austrian capital's daily life, whether people stop by or buy them in boxes to take home. One is Zum Schwarzen Kameel. People queue to sit on the terrace, but if you prefer to be inside (like me), you can go straight in. And then there's the institution: Trzesniewski. They started making these savory canapés in 1902. The idea was to make small portions so people could pay. Of the many they serve, 18 are the original recipes. People also stop by for a small beer. pfiff. What does it mean whistle In German. The name comes from the fact that you drink it quickly. At Trzesniewski, by the way, their motto is "the unpronounceable delicious canapés," due to the establishment's Polish-origin surname. I'd say it's a must-visit.

As is visiting one of the 180 sausage kiosks. Ask them to cut them into pieces. One of the most common is the käsekrainer, which has cheese inside and is grated with chopped radish on top. For Viennese, these are places of communion, since everyone goes there, regardless of their social class. The one across Rue de l'Opera, right in front of the Albertina Museum, Bitzinger, is one of those where you can see people in tails eating during a concert break. This kiosk has a rabbit on the roof as a tribute to the famous painting housed in the Albertina Museum. They also have another one next to the famous Ferris wheel in the amusement park. But the list of places is very long. You can also go to Würstelstand am Hohen Markt or Zum scharfen René, among many other examples. René, by the way, was the instigator of having eating these sausages declared Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity by UNESCO, and also of creating an association of the vendors. They will ask you if you want sweet or hot mustard (süss either sharpHave the answer ready. In recent years, by the way, they've included vegan options.

The sausage line isn't the only one you'll be queuing for. In the most central location imaginable, next to St. Stephen's Cathedral, you'll find Demel (which is also KuK) to try Kaiserschmarrn. It's a typical dessert from the Austro-Hungarian Empire, made from a kind of fluffy crepe cut into pieces and caramelized, usually with plum jam and icing sugar. The name honors Emperor Franz Joseph I of Austria and means something like "Emperor's Little Cakes."

Far from the center, close to everything

Vienna is a wonderful city to visit because it has a great public transport network. There are day passes available, and once you have one, you can use as much public transport as you like, whether it's the tram, bus, or subway. Furthermore, in Vienna, you don't need to validate your pass each time; you only need to show it if someone asks. And since the city isn't that big (it has a population of two million), as a tourist it's easy to leave the 1st district, the city center, and explore a little further afield, just a few minutes away by public transport. One way to take advantage of the integrated pass is to go to a restaurant that's very popular with Viennese locals: Gasthaus Stern. In fact, as you approach, you'll see the star (the Stern) twinkling. stern) which gives the shop its name. It's Christian Werner's shop, and he even picks some of the clothes he sells himself. It's a shop nose to tailSo, nothing goes to waste here. You'll find small game, game, and some typical Viennese dishes. There's traditional schnitzel, but also a pheasant schnitzel that was amazing. Also beef testicles, mountain goat meatballs, tripe breaded like calamari, and a traditional dish that I found delicious: brains with egg on a langoš (a Hungarian flatbread or pizza-like dough). As I said, the restaurant is worth a visit and will be one of the most authentic meals you can have. Another dish to try in Vienna is goulash. You can try it at The Stern itself. But Christian Werner recommends two other places: Weinhaus Hochmaier, off the beaten track, or a centrally located Café Anzengruber.

At The Stern restaurant, you can eat snails, which come from Andreas Gugumuck's snail farm. Snails were a staple of Viennese cuisine for religious reasons, as a way to reduce meat consumption, and because they are an excellent source of protein, they were widely eaten. In fact, much of the French love for snails stems from visits to the Austro-Hungarian Empire. After many years in which "Viennese oysters," as they were called, weren't very popular, Gugumuck has decided to revive their popularity. He raises Mediterranean snails on his farm and serves a dish inspired by Catalan snails. He sells preserves, including snail livers, which have a nutty flavor. You'll also find a bar open from May to September, and a bistro where, twice a year, he hosts a seven-course meal dedicated solely to snails. Reservations are always sold out and can be made on his website. They call it a Gala meal, in homage to Gala Dalí, as all the courses are served at once. It's a unique place that's part of a larger project. Andreas Gugumuck wants to prove that a city can be food self-sufficient; he sets out to do so.

The other must-see in Vienna is to visit one of them heurigerOne of the defining characteristics of the Austrian capital is the vineyards that surround much of the city. There, you can sample the winery's young, fresh wines and dishes like liptauer, a spreadable cheese spread available in various flavors, such as paprika or pumpkin seed. They offer a traditional menu, and in many cases, it's a buffet. You can try the dish made with semmelknödel (dumplings) or (I would definitely order them) the grammelknödel with chupet (a type of filled roll). It's an ideal spot for groups of friends and families. There are several wineries like this, and you can choose the one you like best. To name a couple, Wolff or Wieninger. The latter takes its name from the most prominent wine producer, as the establishment is run by his brother. The producer in question is Fritz Wieninger, a winemaker passionate about biodynamic agriculture who makes exceptionally high-quality wines, primarily whites, but he also has a very successful Pinot Noir harvest. If I had to choose just one wine to taste in Vienna, it would be a Gemischter Satz. This means the grape varieties are blended, with at least three different varieties present. However, there can be many more within the list of indigenous varieties. This traditional winemaking method made sense because if one variety suffered from the climate or pests, there were others that could withstand it. The resulting white wine is distinctly Viennese and well worth tasting.

Creativity in the kitchen

Although tradition and the weight of history are very much present in Vienna, creativity can also be found. One example, suitable for all palates, but not all budgets, is the best restaurant in the country: Steirereck. It has three Michelin stars and is located in the middle of a park, in an architecturally captivating building known for its modernity. You can eat river omelet cooked with beeswax, a dish they have been making for years and one of the emblems of Birgit and Heinz Reitbauer's restaurant. Or a perfect eel with cabbage. The bread cart, where you can choose from 20 or 25 options and which is run by Andreas Djordjevic, should have a fourth star, if one existed.

If you want to try new, but more accessible things, one option would be to eat at Augora. It is a restaurant-shop specializing in fermented food. A truly unique experience. They have vegan and meat options. It's worth discovering this interesting project by Alexandra Liberda, where they also offer all kinds of courses on fermentation. If you're looking to take a risk with dinner, Bruders is the place to go. A modern spot where they like to pair their dishes with daring combinations and cocktails. Absolutely Instagrammable.