Tram-Tram Restaurant: 35 years of honest cuisine that has not been seduced by trends
Isidre Soler and Reyes Lizán are at the helm of this gastronomic landmark on Major Street in Sarrià, Barcelona.
BarcelonaWe're in pre-Olympic Barcelona, "they'd barely even opened the Gamba del Mariscal," says Isidre Soler. It was then, 35 years ago, that they started their adventure with Reyes Lizán, his wife. Since then, they've opened the doors of the Tram-Tram restaurant (121 Carrer Major de Sarrià) every single day, despite the various crises and the many ups and downs Barcelona has seen. But they've reached 2026 with the dining room full of regular customers.
When the adventure began, there were three partners: the two of them and Guillermo Casañé, who currently owns the Silvestre restaurant on Carrer Santaló. Guillermo's mother was the one who sold the restaurant, which already bore that name in homage to the Sarrià tram that used to run through there and stopped operating in 1967. Isidre and Reyes met at the Sant Pol de Mar Hospitality School. There they met a great friend for life, Xavier Pellicer. They share a lot of philosophy, like serving "heartfelt cuisine," as Isidre describes it. He tells me about artichokes, peas, mushrooms, black trumpet mushrooms, and dishes on the daily menu: fricandó, shank, fish suquet, and Catalan-style broad beans. At Tram-Tram, they have an à la carte menu, daily specials, and a couple of set menus. One of these is served at lunchtime on weekdays and costs 45 euros. He addresses Isidre (or Isidro, ending with a one, whichever you prefer) and asks me how much someone can expect to spend right now in Barcelona eating at 90% of the restaurants, where, moreover, you won't find top-quality ingredients like they do. At Tram-Tram, they serve honest cuisine that isn't seduced by the siren song of trends.
"There's no tourism here. You have to work really hard to get people to come. You have to have personality to know what you want to do, because otherwise, you end up doing the same thing as everyone else. Cheap stuff," Isidre explains during a long after-dinner conversation, admitting that he plays in his own league. "I'm a discreet person. I haven't tried to get media attention, but I have a very good relationship with all my colleagues." This is evidenced by the congratulations they've received from the culinary world this year: Carme Ruscalleda, Ferran Adrià, Pere Monje, the Torres brothers... And a long list of others wished them a happy birthday. "I cook the kind of food I like to eat," says the chef, adding that he's never written down any recipes. "Cooking isn't mathematics," he states emphatically.
A way of life
The restaurant features signature dishes, such as the three textures of artichoke, served with a slow-cooked egg, foie gras, and truffle. This dish is inspired by El Bulli, where Isidre worked, and who also spent time at Rincón de Can Fabes. Isidre explains to me step by step how he created this exuberant and elaborate dish: the organic chicken from La Cajola, dressed in mourning attire with cabbage fondant and truffle. It arrived just when I was already fed up, but I ended up dipping bread in it. Bread they bake themselves. Like the dessert. Early in the morning, Reyes was already preparing the babas, which they will later serve soaked in rum. "It's a way of life," says Reyes, who admits that even now she gets nervous before coming to work. "Like it's the first time," she says. Regarding the staff, they find it difficult to find people who fit the project. "At El Bulli, I worked more hours than a bullfighter, but thanks to that, I have this now," says Isidre Soler with his characteristic natural charm.
They have been part of the country's best gastronomic years, upholding traditional Catalan cuisine, far from the spotlight and media exposure. "I've seen children who never had parents and chefs who never had a life," says Isidre Soler, who also observes that in the online world there's a lot of noise and little knowledge. "Those who post pictures of caviar and lobster on Instagram know how to appreciate a good fricandó, what is ours?" he asks me. Meanwhile, in the dining room, an elderly gentleman is eating with his family. Several generations enjoying a good meal. He has trouble walking and takes a while to reach the door once he's finished. He stops halfway and says, "I eat much better here than in many Michelin-starred restaurants." And he leaves proud.