Paco Pérez's rice is now within reach of Barcelona residents

BarcelonaInside the Hotel Arts, you'll find a restaurant with a life of its own: Enoteca, helmed by chef Paco Pérez. Fans of his restaurant in Llançà, Miramar, know that Pérez excels at rice dishes. And this is the place to experience his work in Barcelona. The Barcelona establishment has begun serving a rice-themed menu on Saturdays at lunchtime. Enoteca is typically a dinner-oriented restaurant; it's only on Saturdays that they take advantage of the natural light in their seaside location to offer this special menu. Named "Paco's Rice," it's proving very popular with locals, who are eager to discover this two-Michelin-starred establishment.

Before delving into the menu, it's worth noting that the Hotel Arts (and everything within it) is undergoing a complete renovation. So, it's worth exploring the space before the transformation is fully complete. The restaurant, which has been open for 17 years, will temporarily close after the summer season for renovations and to coincide with the hotel's complete overhaul. La Enoteca will gain square footage in its kitchen and possibly its terrace as well. Until then, we have a few months to get to know the restaurant and compare it later.

La teca

The rice menu has the structure of a tasting menu, but with fewer courses and a main course that is, of course, rice, and is the most substantial. It's not a rice tasting, really; it's rice in just the right amount. The variety Pérez has chosen for the dish is Piedmontese, from the Acquerello farm in Vercelli. They use the Carnaroli variety and age it. It's one of the most highly regarded rices among chefs and is grown exclusively using organic farming methods. Pérez cooks it so that it ends up with a creamy texture, closer to risotto than pan-fried rice. He accompanies it with portobello mushrooms, octopus, and sea urchins, and finishes it with truffle slices. In addition to serving the rice, at the end of the meal, the recipe is given to the diners for those who wish to make it at home.

But before the rice, there are some succulent appetizers. It begins with a trio of snacks: a sheet of mushroom jelly, a cockle tartlet, and an anchovy flan reminiscent of... chawanmushiThe Japanese savory flan, filtered through a Mediterranean lens, is followed by a star dish on the menu: tuna tartare, also presented as a mille-feuille and accompanied by caviar and nori seaweed. Next comes what they call the "traveling prawn," served with duplings filled with Duroc pork chop and a curry that provides a necessary and pleasant spiciness. All these courses precede the heart of the meal: the rice.

When it's time to reach the final stretch, they introduce a play of citrus and cocoa aromas which, in contact with dry ice, transport the diner to the sweet moment of the meal. I'm not a big fan of the theatrical effect of smoke, but I recognize that many people enjoy experiencing that visually striking moment when the smoke rises vigorously, covering the table as if we were in Vic on a winter's day at 7 a.m. This blanket of smoke leads us directly to the first dessert. A chocolate and citrus casserole dish designed for those with a sweet tooth. Then we finish (with the permission of the small fours) with a slice of winter Santa Teresa toast, drizzled with cocoa. If there's any room left, they now offer a very good selection of small fours that you can eat even when you're not hungry.

Needless to say, in this type of establishment, the service is always excellent, as are the wine list and pairing suggestions. In particular, it's worth trying Olades. This brisado wine was designed by the chef in collaboration with the Oller del Mas winery to celebrate the restaurant's 15th anniversary, which is now two years old. Made with white sea bass, it aims to capture the vigor of the sea. Very few bottles remain, and it's worth trying, as it's only available at the Enoteca restaurant and pairs perfectly with the rice dishes. The meal costs 150 euros, drinks not included.