Ouzo, the liqueur that originates from the anise fields of the island of Lesbos

Lisvorio (Lesbos)"It's very hard work," says Kostas Mattarellis from atop the whisking machine, almost shouting over the noise it makes. Mattarellis lives in Lisvorio, in the center of the Greek island of Lesbos, the land where ouzo, the famous anise-flavored liqueur known throughout the world, is produced. Kostas owns some anise fields, part of the Isododos Arvanitis distillery in Plomari, which he cultivates with the help of his family. "Look," he says, smiling as he takes a handful of seeds from a full sack, "it's perfect, neither damp nor sunburnt." Most of the island's distilleries use anise seeds from Lisvori and compete to acquire the fields, considered the best because of their proximity to the sea and the amount of sun they receive. "Ouzo?" Kostas asks. "I love drinking a bottle with friends, while eating together." In fact, within the island's culture, this is the drink that brings people together. It's served diluted with water, and sometimes ice cubes are added.

The historical roots of ouzo production lie in Plomari, home to two of the most renowned distilleries. The first, Varvayanni, was founded in 1860. One of the antique stills on display in the company museum has the date and place of manufacture inscribed on the base of its copper dome: 1858, Constantinople. "When the still heats up," explains Eleana Nikolaou, "the vapors, laden with alcohol and aromas, are collected in this dome, and the swan neck carries them to the condenser where they cool and condense into liquid." At the factory entrance, 71-year-old Vayia Varvayannis welcomes some tourists from Cyprus. The family's philosophy is clear: "We try to preserve the traditions of our ancestors just as they passed them down to us." We ask her what dishes pair best with her ouzo. "The best meze “It’s good company!” she replies, laughing.

Maroussa Tsachaki, master distiller at the Isidoros Arvanitis distillery, wears a white coat and her hair is tucked into a cap. “We don’t have large stills,” she explains, “we use 18 small, traditional stills. A few years ago, we built a new facility among olive trees, just a few minutes from the village of Plomari.” Behind Maroussa are rows of copper vessels. The flavored spirit is left to rest in tanks and then combined with water until the desired alcohol content is reached. Pointing to the ingredients on the worktable in front of her, Maroussa adds, “We only use anise from Lisvori because the climate there is perfect.”

The sun sets over the long beach of Skala Eressou. We're on the terrace of the Aigaio tavern. The table is already full of meze: salad, homemade cheese, fried eggplant, octopus cooked with wine, dolmadakia, meatballs with sauce, stewed zucchini blossoms... but one last thing is missing: "The Lakerta “It’s a special dish to enjoy with ouzo!” says Theodoros Yiannakelos, the owner, enthusiastically. It consists of bonito fillets marinated in water and salt following an old island recipe. “Here, every small village has its traditional dish, and they can all be paired with ouzo,” he explains, referring to a special ouzeri called Ta Ouzotharapia. The owner, Yiannis Kritikos, runs up and down the table serving and advising customers. meze Lighter dishes, like salad, vegetables, and sardines; then move on to cheese and tzatziki; and finally to meat and fish.” Fotini Kritikos, 20, works at the family restaurant. He tells us that ouzo livens up the village festivals, where horse races are held, and that older people use it as a cure-all. “Although the lifestyle of the younger generations is different today,” he says, “when you go on a picnic with friends, there’s always ouzo. It’s a symbol of camaraderie.”

Many distilleries have their facilities in and around Mytilene. Some have lesser-known brands, but are no less interesting, thanks to their roots and their potential for innovation. “My father founded the Eva distillery in 1995, and now my son, Partikopoulos, a tall, gentle man in his forties, runs it. "We start with traditional products and raw materials and try to experiment, as with Serdiko, an ouzo with more intense aromas, or with mastic, which we launched in 2013." The Veto distillery is right in front of the ferry terminal. The owner, Dimitrios Spentzas, shows us his workshop. "It has a different nuance, which gives it a different aroma." The story of this brand begins in Anatolia, in Pergamon. "In 1892, my great-grandfather Teoharis obtained a license to distill raki by special decree of the sultan," says Dimitrios, showing the framed documents bearing the seal of the Sublime Porta. "I use the family recipe, but I try to innovate by rebalancing the ingredients and adding other spices. Try it!"