From the exhaustion of the tasting menu to the rise of ready-made meals and slimming injections: a gastronomic portrait of the last 15 years

BarcelonaARA was barely three months old when Santi Santamaria, a bastion of traditional Catalan cuisine, died unexpectedly in Singapore. Five months later El Bulli closed its doors for good.The restaurant in Cala Montjoi that revolutionized cuisine worldwide and popularized terms like spherification. This ended the struggle between two factions in our country: those who defended creative cuisine and those who defended traditional cuisine. What came next?

Molecular gastronomy, or whatever you want to call it.

Molecular, techno-emotional, creative. No single name has ever been agreed upon for the culinary revolution that took place in Catalonia, but that doesn't diminish the fact that the groundwork it laid has been laid ever since. Meanwhile, El Celler de Can Roca forged its own path in parallel, and was considered the best restaurant in the world in 2013 and 2015We would have to wait until 2024 to have the number 1 spot back in Catalonia. and it would be EnjoyingHeir to El Bulli. However, if we look at the current lists, there isn't a single Catalan chef who can take over anytime soon. In the world of Michelin stars, things have grown: while in 2010 there were 43 recognized restaurants with a total of 60 stars, now there are 62 with 77.

There's life beyond the stars

Tastes and trends change. In recent years, there has been a certain exhaustion of the long tasting menu model and a questioning of the business model itself. Many of these restaurants are now financed through other sources of income, such as catering. Meanwhile, Catalan restaurants have been swept out of some Barcelona neighborhoods. together with CatalanIn certain areas of the Eixample has been imposed brunchBut it is true that in recent years green shoots are visibleHighly trained young chefs, from the fine dining establishments we mentioned earlier, are opening small, artisanal eateries where Catalan cuisine is once again shining. However, profit margins are increasingly tight due to rising prices for raw ingredients, such as prawns and peas, but also because of the cost of electricity and rent. This is benefiting large restaurant groups with central kitchens or, in many cases, ready-made meals—the so-called "fifth range"—that only need to be heated. Some don't even have ventilation systems.

Alcohol? No, thanks

Another factor that has reduced restaurant revenue is that people are ordering less wine, an item that previously generated a good profit margin. Catalonia, a wine-producing region, is seeing this trend. as people drink less and less Wine. According to data from Incavi, in 2019, 29% of Catalans drank wine once a week, and by 2025, that figure had dropped to 19%. And of the wine consumed, only 37.3% is Catalan. Non-alcoholic beverages have burst onto the scene, and 0.0% beers are experiencing overwhelming success. They can be found to suit all tastes. The case of wine is different, and many winegrowers and sommeliers are wary of the dealcoholization process. However, there is growing interest in bottles with lower alcohol content or even alcohol-free options. The reason is that people want to take better care of themselves, and yet, if we look at what's happening at home, perhaps the picture is quite different.

The Age of the Spider

What do we have in our fridges at home? Well, less and less fish. In just a decade, fresh fish consumption has fallen by 30%. In Catalonia, one in four fish shops have closed in six years. Furthermore, in one year, the price of fish rose by 3.5%, according to data provided by the Alícia Foundation. The most consumed fish? It's not exactly Mediterranean. It's salmon, at 16%.

However, much more protein is being consumed. According to data from the data collection and analysis company Worldpanel, protein intake has increased, and the consumption of products like eggs and yogurt has continued to grow. This is driven by people who exercise and by older people who don't want to lose too much muscle mass. That said, the growth of products designed to replace animal protein hasn't been as expected. The meat substitute bubble has burst.

As for fruit, the situation is quite bleak. In 15 years, fruit consumption has decreased by 28%. And what we do consume isn't locally grown. Sales of apricots and avocados are on the rise. The reason? Social media, which has had an enormous impact on the food choices people make, especially young people. This explains why one of the world's best chocolatiers, Lluc Crusellas from Osona, currently has a best-selling product: Dubai chocolate, born from a TikTok phenomenon.

Prop stoves

People are cooking less and less.particularly young people. And the sale of ready-made meals, especially in supermarkets, is gaining ground. Just look at the shelf space dedicated to them. Catalonia holds the Spanish record for consumption of ready-made meals. In 2024, it was 21.9 kilos per person. We must also consider the emergence of... deliveryDriven by the ease of ordering dinner via mobile phone from the comfort of your sofa. Over these years, we have learned the terms dark kitchen or ghost kitchens. Authorities have had to regulate their activity, as well as the operation of the delivery apps. According to Worldpanel data, almost 40% of households order food delivery at least once a year.

European schedules

The global coronavirus pandemic has also significantly influenced consumption patterns. According to data provided by the booking engine The Fork, restaurant reservation times in Catalonia have become more European. 29% of Catalans prefer to book before 2 p.m., compared to only 9% five years ago. And when it comes to dinner, 39% of reservations are made before 9 p.m., up from 12% previously. Those who want to dine after 10 p.m. have dropped from 37% to 18%. Over these five years, the average check has also increased by 8%, reaching €27 this year. Mediterranean cuisine remains the most popular choice, but new players are emerging, such as Argentinian restaurants, which have doubled in number over the past five years and now represent 3% of The Fork's listings.

American injections

Ozempic and Mounjaro are names that meant nothing to us fifteen years ago, but they've been on the American market for some time now and are becoming increasingly common in Catalonia, especially in the last year. This medication, designed to treat diabetes but very useful for weight loss, quickly suppresses appetite. As a result, the restaurant industry is starting to see it as a potential problem in the future. Will we have to reduce portion sizes? Will they lose customers? But it's also a concern for supermarkets. In fact, in the United States, they're starting to sell food preparations specifically for people taking this medication. Will we see that here soon too?