Casa Natalia: the hostess who goes out of her way for her diners in Formentera

Saint Ferdinand of the Rocks (Formentera)I was once talking to a film expert who told me that the settings of films set in the 60s, 70s, or 80s were not realistic. The reason is that these recreations sought objects from a single period, the one in which the action took place, and that in general this never happened in houses. Homes are like an archaeological site, there are many layers. I think about this when I enter Casa Natalia, in Sant Ferran de ses Roques, in Formentera. When you enter this restaurant, it feels a bit like you are in their home, as the establishment is full of objects that Natàlia Juan and Carles Abellán have acquired throughout their lives and travels.

There is a record player, mannequins, books, a piano, the plaque from when the chef had a Michelin star for the restaurant Comerç 24, a hand-sewn Union Jack... We wouldn't finish. And among collector's items, we find Natàlia, the perfect hostess. She welcomes everyone with a smile, walks by the tables to ensure everyone is well looked after, she doesn't miss that there's a diner celebrating a birthday today, and she has an innate talent for children. How intelligent to treat the little ones well. They will be future customers and when they like something, they have an insistence that knows no limits. There are children who spend the year asking if they will visit Natàlia again this summer. She takes them to the kitchen to prepare the strawberry and cream dessert, which they serve in a large porcelain strawberry. The name, therefore, Casa Natalia, is very fitting, as she is the one who leads the orchestra of this restaurant.

Excellence in the kitchen, however, is Carles Abellán's domain. It was the economic shocks and the pandemic that made this chef and his wife realize that they needed to scale back and stop. Until then, Formentera was their happy place where revolutions slowed down; then it ended up being the place that would teach them another way of life. Abellán had had several restaurants, among which the Tapas 24 stands out, which is now owned by the employees and the chef remains involved as an economic advisor. The legacy of his previous projects, however, is seen on the menu. On the one hand, his iconic bikini sandwich, which we can not only taste in Formentera, but his son Tomàs Abellán also serves at Bar Alegria in Barcelona. We also find the Russian salad with tuna belly, of which he must have sold tons at Tapas 24.

A combination that works

They have a nice menu with two highly recommended main courses. One is grilled skate with black butter, capers and lime on a bed of potato. Sublime. The other is an invention by the chef that I think works wonderfully. It's a middle ground between veal fricandó and lasagna. He describes it as "messy lasagna" while grating a piece of parmesan over it. A dish that could be heavy and isn't. Simply put, it works.

And if we have the space that Natàlia Juan represents at street level, in the basement we find what Carles Abellán represents. It's called Charly's and it's a soundproof space perfect for enjoying a drink, live music, and even some celebration. And what's more, in a place where no one is bothered. A place to party on the island of calm. A tranquility that this couple has found after having "suffered a lot", in the words of our hostess, who recalls that "life takes many turns".