Beirut renews itself without losing the soul that has made it a classic

“I am a painter!” This is how Laia Armengol, the visible face and soul of the new Beirut, defines herself. “I have gone from spending many hours in silence, alone, still, painting, to not stopping moving, surrounded by people and chatting non-stop”.

Beirut belongs to three partners: Laia, Jordi Pagès and Ulisses Raurich. They have been in charge of giving a new life to the iconic restaurant that, for many years, was managed by Àlex and Susana, the former owners. Now Beirut has a clean face, a new kitchen and different colors, but Laia, Jordi and Ulisses have managed to maintain its essence and good atmosphere.

It is a summer night. The heat, as during almost the entire season, has been very intense and the restaurant is full. While we wait for the menu, we order a pomada, a combination of gin and lemonade in the form of a slushie. The menu is not very extensive, but there are enough options to choose from. We will combine some of the classic lifelong dishes with the new creations that Iu Estragués, a Cadaqués native and head chef, has incorporated. We start dinner with some fried olives, a green salt cod esqueixada, and a grilled eggplant pâté with pomegranate and walnuts. These are dishes to share, tasty and as well-cooked as they are presented.

A frantic service

As you can imagine, on a summer night in Cadaqués and with the restaurant full, the service is frantic. Even so, both the dining room team and the kitchen team meet the waiting times to perfection and maintain excellent attention towards the customers at all times.

We are recommended a harvest wine and, without thinking too much about it, we say yes, even though we don't quite know what they are talking about. Our ignorance on many issues is evident, but the best way to reduce these shortcomings is to listen to those who know. This wine is made with grape skins, re-fermented with must. It is what farmers and harvesters used to stay hydrated during the harvest season. It has an unusual taste that reminds one of cider, with a bitter touch and a bit of sparkle. The wine is called Virra 2024 and it is produced by the La Natural winery. It is good and keeps us company throughout the dinner.

We continue with the tandoori chicken with basmati rice, one of Beirut's historic dishes; the warm beef tartare; some fish and chips; the breaded chicken with arugula, parmesan and lemon zest, and the grilled Iberian pork pluma. For dessert, cheesecake with cocoa and a chocolate flan with bread, oil and salt. We accompany them with the latest pomada.

What are a painter (Laia), an architect (Jordi), and a sports footwear sales representative (Ulisses) doing at the helm of a successful restaurant in Cadaqués? Enjoying the experience and letting themselves be advised by one of the most renowned chefs in our country. If you have read the beginning of the text carefully, you can guess who it is about. The result? Excellent! In short, a very attractive gastronomic proposal at a reasonable price.

Laia highlights, above all else, the team that has accompanied them: Iu leads the kitchen, and Roger, Jesús, Arnau, Martí, Malika, and Gisela complete a group of young people who have contributed commitment, hard work, and good vibes. At the end of October, they will close their first season with the satisfaction of having met their goals: to provide good food, serve the customers in a friendly and agile way, and honor the memory of the old Beirut. We have no doubt that the new Beirut, as time goes by, will also become a classic.