Wines of border and commitment

On both sides of the Algars River, in a landscape of majestic geography, between the Terra Alta and the Matarranya, the winemaker Pol Sannicolàs Grima is recovering old vineyards in Arnes and making wine from them. “I feel responsible; everything you do in a rural environment has a greater impact and relevance than in the city. You are aware that you are part of the landscape and you also realize that you are insignificant. I don’t make wine so that someone remembers me, but to protect a territory and a culture,” he reflects out loud. He has a very close bond with the landscape and especially with those who inhabit it: “We are the only region that continues to lose population in the Terres de l’Ebre, and we want to reverse that statistic. I am from Cornellà de Llobregat, but some time ago I decided to return to my roots. My great-grandmother was born here.”

His wine project is called Laflecavins, inheriting the name from his previous professional venture, which was digital and highlighted the idea of fermenting ideas. In wine, yeasts are also substantial. His curiosity for this world comes from his close relationship with the wineries Bàrbara Forés and La Despeinada; he even became professionally involved with the latter. He explores winemaking craftsmanship with them and learns from the consistency and reputation of the former and the human scale of the latter. “I have always been linked to associationism and I grew up with the feeling that not everything should be commodified. Wine does not support me financially, but I take care of vineyards that farmers entrust to me without asking for anything in return, or I vinify grapes from those who give them to me with all their affection,” he replies. This vintage, he will finally be able to produce the six wines he has in mind, after uncertain years due to the climate and circumstances. He will reach 3,000 bottles, mainly with Macabeu and Garnatxa Negra. “These are wines with structure but they are fresh. I like the grapes to ripen well. We are honest with what the region provides. All the wines except one have skin contact. The work you do throughout the year is present in them, and it feels harsh to remove them all at once,” he shares.

Clear oenological profile and extreme commitment to a village that has little more than ten hectares of vineyards left. Laflecavins names its wines honoring musical icons, Sannicolàs's other obsession. One is called Punys, inspired by resistance and the artist Berri Txarrak: “Sometimes I have thought that I am an intruder because I make wines without being from this world, but I quickly tell myself that in the world of music I have always defended that you don't need to go to the conservatory to make music with soul; it can also happen by studying a YouTube tutorial”. He balances passions, and this is transferred to the wine. There is authenticity, austerity, and vitality. And it has a fertile and courageous path ahead.