It's often said that a good wine list presupposes a very good culinary selection. At La Lleona Salada restaurant in Altafulla, this proves true. "The initial idea was to open a wine bar with cold cuisine, but we were really afraid because we didn't see the south as ready," says sommelier Helena Boronat, one of the four partners. After realizing it was risky to dedicate themselves solely to wine, they decided on the restaurant on a quiet street, marked by beautiful architecture and bougainvillea. They opened in May. "The idea is very clear. We have vibrant and energetic wines that don't leave you indifferent. We like wine to awaken things in those who drink it; that's what we strive for and what motivates us," she summarizes. With her brother Cesc, they also make wine at the Cerra els Ulls winery in Nulles. Clearly, the list breathes the spirit of their wines and is an increasingly diverse star of wines from worthy friends, such as our neighbors at Celler 9+ or Sicus. "We wanted a short, liquid list, but I feel more comfortable as I incorporate more wines, even though it can sometimes be difficult to introduce them. Customers almost always accept advice. They don't know many of the wines we suggest, because in Tarragona the public is rather classic. Therefore, we do an educational job that we regretfully don't do. It's visible," she explains. Most of the wines on the list are Catalan and from the Tarragona region, but there's no shortage of wines from small Italian and French producers. "We want short-production wines with people behind them," Boronat clarifies. He dares to say that "if the restaurant were a wine, it would be Cambuix by Mallorcan winemaker Cati Ribot: a red wine from the viper and the alley. This sums up the spirit of the menu: native varieties and a great deal of craftsmanship in its production."
Boronat already plans to expand it for the fall; it will go from a single page with fifty items to a small catalog. In the summer, the restaurant has filled up and managed to create harmonies with a cuisine that showcases all the virtues of the Mediterranean with seasonal and local produce, and a playful touch, that of Uruguayan chef Sebastian Benia Ruiz. The grilled wild sea bass, the tuna tartare, and the Tarragona red shrimp croquette have delighted locals and tourists alike. "We'll continue to be daring and change the food offering every two or three months. For the fall, we're thinking about a music and wine season. We'll look for more relaxed formats so we can have a good time too," he says. The first few loyal guests know they have to come back repeatedly and that the hospitality is another of their greatest assets.
