Much more than recipes: Catalan cuisine is landscape, memory and craft

In Catalonia, landscape and gastronomy are almost inextricably intertwined. "The cuisine explains what our land is like: it speaks of our fields and forests, of our flocks and orchards, of the changes in light and temperature throughout the year," Josep Sucarrats, food journalist and editor of the magazine, explained to ARA. RootsThis direct connection with the environment has shaped a culinary tradition that is both seasonal and regional, with dishes that vary not only according to the calendar, but also according to the specific area. "Catalonia is impossible to summarize with just four recipes, because the differences between regions are very pronounced and they are the birthplace of very distinct recipes," he notes.

At a time of growing environmental awareness and health concerns, traditional Catalan cuisine is once again emerging as a natural ally. It draws on the principles of the Mediterranean diet—balance, seasonality, and local sourcing—and has always been a cuisine of resourcefulness. "We haven't lived in a country where food was plentiful," Sucarrats points out, "so we've had to find recipes and ways to use it up and make it last longer." This folk wisdom, often born of necessity, takes on new value today. More than a memory of the past, Catalan cuisine is a living heritage that helps us imagine more rooted, fairer, and more sustainable ways of living.

The richness and variety of Catalan cuisine is a direct result of the country's diverse landscapes and climates. This relationship between territory and cuisine has been recognized with Catalonia's designation as a World Region of Gastronomy 2025, the first European region to receive this title. Beyond international recognition, the distinction serves to highlight the quality and uniqueness of Catalan products, the work of farmers, ranchers, and fishermen, and the capacity of our food system to combine tradition and innovation. Within this framework are initiatives such as "12 Months, 12 Landscapes," which each month focuses on a different product and environment, and "Heroes of the Pantry," which recognizes the diversity and richness of the foods that have shaped our cuisine. This gastronomic richness is not only present but also has a long history. Catalan cuisine boasts over 700 years of written tradition, with references such as...Sent Soví's BookPublished in the 14th century, it is considered the first cookbook in Europe written in a non-Latin language. Masters like Josep Lladonosa have revived this legacy and breathed new life into ancient dishes in works such asCatalan cuisine from 700 years agoAlong the same lines is the Gastrosavias project, promoted by the Department of Agriculture, Livestock, Fisheries and Food with the support of the Alícia Foundation, which collects and transmits the knowledge of older women in the territory, preserving a living culinary heritage that connects generations and reinforces collective self-esteem.

The landscape, in the kitchen

This vision of cuisine as a reflection of the landscape and memory is not just an idea, but a living practice in many of the country's best restaurants. At Les Cols in Olot, they have been working for years with the traditional produce of La Garrotxa and with what they themselves call "the mystical cuisine of the landscape." Dishes that begin with humble ingredients and the unchanging cycle of the seasons, evoking timeless flavors with a contemporary language. "We like to reinterpret tradition in order to preserve it," explain chefs Fina Puigdevall and Martina Puigvert. Their project, recognized with two Michelin stars and a green star for sustainability, demonstrates that it is possible to reach the highest level without abandoning one's origins.

For Puigdevall and Puigvert, reinterpreting tradition is not a rejection of the past, but rather a way of telling its story with a new language. "We like to offer the most intimate and familiar dishes, but with a contemporary perspective, and to use nature and the landscape as our source of inspiration," they explain. From the kitchen of Les Cols, they champion a restrained, refined approach, connected to the land and the unchanging cycle of the seasons. "It is essential that our cuisine represents our territory, offering dishes with locally sourced ingredients that are a true reflection of our landscape," they affirm. This commitment to the environment also translates into a dedication to sustainability, authenticity, and respect for humble produce. "We reinterpret the products that the land and its surroundings offer us and play with the contrast between tradition and innovation," they conclude.

In Lleida, the Sexto restaurant practices a similar philosophy. "We connect with the local area through the producers and artisans who collaborate with us," explains chef Àngel Esteve. Their menu, short and ever-changing, responds to the rhythm of the seasons and what the immediate surroundings offer. From the kitchen, they champion a direct connection to tradition. "A simple escudella (a Catalan stew) seems to me an extraordinary dish," he says, also highlighting the use of chopped meat, broths, and sofrito (a sautéed vegetable and garlic mixture) as the essence of Catalan cuisine. For him, reinterpretation shouldn't obscure the product. "The moment you can no longer perceive the main ingredient, I think the thread of tradition has been lost," he observes.

For him, Catalan cuisine is also a way of returning home. "When I've been away, that's when I've realized the importance of the basic things that are so ingrained in us," he explains. The memory of the family farmhouse, where they grew vegetables, fruit, and herbs, still permeates his cooking. "Having our surroundings so close allows us to cook from instinct," he says. This naturalness isn't just about the ingredients, but also about culture: sharing a meal, cooking slowly, loving what we have. "This is our greatest debt to society: to take advantage of everything that comes into our country and value it," he concludes.

A cuisine that is territory and culture

Catalan cuisine cannot be understood without considering its territory, and the territory can also be understood through the products it produces. Protected Designations of Origin (PDOs) and Protected Geographical Indications (PGIs) are much more than just labels: they are a way of recognizing the unique characteristics of foods linked to a landscape, a tradition, and a way of making them. Numerous products hold Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) status: in the volcanic soils of La Garrotxa, the delicate and creamy Santa Pau beans are born, while in the Lleida Plain, the sweet and juicy Lleida pears ripen; in the mountain regions, the cheese and butter of Alt Urgell and Cerdanya are produced with milk from cows that graze in high-altitude meadows. And around Vallès and Maresme, the Ganxet Bean grows with a unique shape and delicate texture that make it ideal for winter dishes; there are also nuts like the Reus Hazelnut, the basis of many sweet preparations, or cereals like the Ebro Delta Rice, essential in seafood and mountain rice dishes.

As for olive oils, Catalonia boasts a rich olive-growing tradition, with five recognized Protected Designations of Origin (PDOs): Siurana, Les Garrigues, Empordà, Terra Alta, and Baix Ebre-Montsià. These oils offer distinct nuances and flavors depending on the soil and climate. They are fruity, balanced, and full of character, essential for dishes like romesco sauce, xató salad, or simply a slice of bread with tomato. We also have dairy products like Garrotxa cheese, which revives a traditional production method from the volcanic region, resulting in a mild flavor and firm texture. And of course, there are meat products such as Vic sausage, Penedès rooster, Prat chicken and capon, and Catalan Pyrenees veal, which keep alive a way of raising and cooking that is associated with festive recipes, roasts, and Sunday meals.

Finally, we find such emblematic Protected Geographical Indications (PGIs) as the Calçot de Valls and Pan de Pagès Català, with its thick crust and moist crumb, the undisputed star of pa amb tomàquet (bread with tomato). Patatas de Prades (Prades Potatoes), grown at over 1,000 meters altitude, have an ideal texture for carving and stews, while the Manzana de Girona (Girona Apple) and Clementines de les Terres de l'Ebre (Ebro Lands Clementines) bring freshness and vitamins to our daily diet. Turrón de Agramunt (Agramunt Nougat), a staple of Christmas culinary folklore, completes the circle of a collection of products that, beyond their flavor, explain the country: its diversity, its hard work, its culture, and its ability to preserve its traditions in a changing world.

In times when everything tends towards homogenization and speed, Catalan cuisine keeps alive a legacy based on the land, local ingredients, and memory. From the farmers to the bakeries, from small producers to the chefs who interpret the landscape, this culinary heritage continues to evolve without losing touch with its roots. Reclaiming it is not just about preserving recipes, but about defending a way of producing, consuming, and relating to food that values quality, sustainability, and unique identity.