What does Cal Trump have that makes so many people recommend him?

Tower of OristàWhat is it about Cal Trumfo, in Torre de Oristà, that has so many people talking to me? With this question in mind, I headed to Lluçanès, which, by the way, is green, blooming, and beautiful these days. I came back loaded with cured meats, cheese, and a Perafita cake. It's hard to come home with a pantry that would be more impressive.

But back to Cal Trumfo. On the way there, a friend from the area who was accompanying us wanted to tone down the euphoria. "It's a simple place, right?" she said. "The food is very good, but don't expect any fancy stuff. Maybe I've sold it too well," she was putting the bandage on before the wound. But the result exceeded expectations, because Cal Trumfo has it all: excellent products, perfectly cooked, and a space that not only welcomes those who are hooked, but is also open to the town.

The architect of it all is Isaac Monzó, a chef at Nou Barris. If we follow the maxim "tell me who you go with and I'll tell you who you'll be," it's enough to mention that his friends and those he's worked with are Jordi Vilà, from Alkimia and AlKostat, and Oriol Rovira, from Els Casals. In fact, Monzó is the one who brought Vilà to Vivanda, a restaurant that ended up being Vilà's. And he was the one who started cooking at Els Casals once they opened after it burned down. In fact, an important part of Cal Trumfo's success is the life path Monzó has taken.

One of the wonders of this restaurant is that there's a box on the menu dedicated to the producers, who are described as "a superior choice." The veal is from Granja Corominas in Avignon. The overcooked meats, yogurts, and fresh cheese are from Gerard at Postres Artesanos Santa Eulàlia in Lluçà. The jams are from Cal Benet in Alpens. The pork is from Cal Rovira in Sagàs. The crystal bread is from El Raiguer Obrador in Navarcles. The Formento bread is from the Cal Pujals bakery in Sant Boi de Lluçanès. The honey is from José de Cal Met in Torre de Oristà. The cheeses are from Reixagó in Olost. The lamb is from Soler de Hugo in Prats de Lluçanès... And so the list goes, revealing as much about who makes it as about who chooses to display it.

And nothing is in vain. Isaac Monzó worked for Jordi Vilà for a long time. His job was to travel around the region to find the best products for the Alkimia restaurant. And now, of course, the work is done. "At that moment, I say, wow, we're here in Torre de Oristà and we're spending product as if this bar were the Alkimia. People are going to end up appreciating it," Monzó thought at the time. Of course they do. Without going any further, I devoured pig's trotters stuffed with pan-fried sausage and vine shoots that would deserve an award. Like the oven-baked ribeye steak with eggplant or the oxtail.

In fact, Monzó has received recognition. Like when he was named a finalist for Best Chef of the Year at the Barcelona Gastronomic Forum. This happened at the end of 2019, and just as the impact was beginning to be felt, the pandemic hit. Monzó spent his time making cured meats in the Cal Rovira workshop and delivering them. In fact, he still lends a hand with the deliveries on Tuesdays. We already know that chefs don't let their hair down, nor do they know how to sit still. The fact is that when things were able to reopen, people came back immediately.

Fermí Puig's quote

Trumfo opened eight years ago. The establishment that was there before closed, and the town was left without a meeting place. Dinners for the village's grandparents. And they have some sofas and tables at the entrance, so people can simply come and have a coffee and chat. It's the place where it's located. It's what many aspire to be, but they only stick to the rhetoric: they can talk about proximity, care for producers, and seasonal ingredients. They're also ambassadors.