Pau Roca: "I'm excited to find wine lists that suit all budgets."

A few years ago you were on the cover of Time Out with a shrimp in his mouth, entitled: "The Other Life of Artists." What is this other life of artists?

— Well, it has nothing to do with being an artist. It's everywhere, but it wasn't here. Besides, I was really looking forward to putting it together with my friends.

The three Lluritu restaurants emerged from that dream. What do you pair the dishes you serve with?

— If you look at Lluritus's statistics, it's incredible how much white wine beats everything else. And even beer. While at the restaurant and cultural center, La Muriel, beer reigns supreme, at three Lluritos, white wine wins. I understand the statistic, because I also usually order white wine, but the truth is, I also have no problem choosing red wine when I order seafood. Without being too strong, of course.

Do you advocate red wines with fish and seafood?

— It's natural to order white wine with these dishes, but what I do advocate for are good rosés. I love rosés, and I think we should get over our complexes. If you go to France, which is one of the great cradles of wine, there's no big deal about putting ice in a rosé. I know it's something you shouldn't do to taste a good wine, but listen, if you feel like it, do it. It's no big deal. There's also the issue of natural wines. I'm becoming quite addicted, but I think Lluritu shouldn't be a place just for natural wines; we should have some. I think every wine has its place. When I go to a historic winery, for example, Martín Códax in Galicia, I don't expect them to offer natural wines.

You don't have many quirks, then. If you had to choose just one or two wines, which would you choose?

— Look, a nice story is that my partner is related to one of the most powerful wineries there is, Bodega Cerrón, located in Fuente Álamo, near Albacete. I went there in the summer, and the concept is amazing; they're redefining the Monastrell variety, and they have a beautiful history because they're one of the few wineries with pre-phylloxera vineyards. Lately, you go to powerful restaurants and you find them. Now their children have taken it over and are turning the old concept on its head: they've stopped making blends and make a lot of single-varietal Monastrells. I really like the Los Yesares wine. I would also highly recommend Pierre Frick, from Alsace. And one of the most classic wines, one that has been important in my life, is Aalto.

Does the story behind a bottle weigh more heavily on you than the technical specifics?

— Yes, but I suppose it's more the story I get to experience than the one I'm told in the restaurant, which tends to be very technical. It's not that I'm not interested, but it goes in one ear and out the other. However, if they tell me about the family project and the path they've taken to the product, there you have it. It's difficult to find the right balance when it comes to selling wine: you have to do it with passion, but not just to sell it to you.

With almost eight years of experience since the first Lluritu, what do you miss from the wine lists of other restaurants?

— Look, I'll give you an example of what it should be, and I'm not using the example of a Lluritu, where we try to do what we think should be done... I think it's very important to have affordable wines for everyone, regardless of the restaurant. Obviously, when you go to a Michelin-starred restaurant you know you're going to spend four hours there and you're up for anything, but there are days when you can screw up big festivals in more ordinary restaurants and you also want to stay a while, and restaurants should also have wines for these occasions. For example, the Direkte restaurant has been doing this for a long time. They have wines for those who pay 300 euros, but also for people who want one for less than 30, and they also have wines made by them. I'm excited to find a wine list that respects all budgets, and if you find a place where they're also making the wine, you say, "Wow, there's a strong commitment." We can't make our own wine at the moment, but I do value it a lot.

What's your budget for wine when you go out to eat?

— It depends on the context. Variety is key. If it's not a special day, I try to keep it under 30 or 35 euros. I'm speaking from a certain age now, because five years ago things were different: now I drink fewer mixed drinks and perhaps prefer to spend somewhere to celebrate something. But the truth is, I never go over 100 euros. If I have, it's been somewhere in the neighborhood. At most, 70 euros, mostly because I don't think I know enough. I can tell the difference between a 15-euro wine and a 50-euro wine, but when I've ordered a great 50-euro wine, I haven't always found it better than one that costs 100 or so.