Ouzo, the liqueur that comes from the anise fields of the island of Lesbos

Lisvorio (Lesbos)"It's very hard work," says Kostas Mattarellis from atop the churning machine, almost shouting over the noise it makes. Mattarellis lives in Lisvorio, in the center of the Greek island of Lesbos, the land where ouzo, the famous anise liqueur known the world over, is produced. Kostas has a few fields of anise, which he cultivates with the help of his family. "Look," he says with a smile as he takes a handful of seeds from a full sack, "it's perfect, neither wet nor sunburned." Most of the island's distilleries use anise seeds from Lisvori and compete to get the fields that are considered the best due to their proximity to the sea and the amount of sun they are exposed to. "Ouzo?" asks Kostas. "I love drinking a bottle with friends, eating together." Indeed, within the island's culture, this is the drink that brings people together. It is taken diluted with water, and sometimes ice cubes can be added.

The historical roots of ouzo production lie in Plomari, home to two of the best-known distilleries. The first, Varvayanni, was founded in 1860. One of the antique stills on display in the company's museum has the date and place of manufacture written on the base of its copper dome: 1858, Constantinople. "When the boiler heats up," explains Eleana Nikolaou, "the vapors filled with alcohol and aromas are collected in this dome, and the swan neck guides them to the serpentine where they cool and transform into liquid." At the factory entrance, 71-year-old Vayia Varvayannis welcomes tourists from Cyprus. The family's philosophy is clear: "We try to preserve the traditions of our ancestors as they have passed them on to us." We asked her which dishes her ouzo pairs best. "The best." meze “It’s good company!” she replies, laughing.

Maroussa Tsachaki, master distiller at the Isidoros Arvanitis distillery, wears a white coat, her hair tucked into a cap. “We don’t have large stills,” she explains, “we use 18 small traditional stills. A few years ago, a new plant was set up among olive trees, just minutes from the village of Plomari. Behind Maroussa are rows of copper vessels. The flavored alcohol is left to settle in tanks and combined with water until the desired alcohol content is reached.” Pointing to the ingredients on the workbench in front of her, Maroussa adds, “We only use anise from Lisvori because the climate there is perfect.”

The sun is setting on the long beach of Skala Eressou. We are on the terrace of the Aigaio tavern. The table is already full of meze: salad, cheese, fried eggplant, octopus cooked with wine, dolmadákia, meatballs with sauce, stewed zucchini flowers... but one last thing is missing: "The lakerta “It’s a special dish to enjoy with ouzo!” enthuses Theodoros Yiannakelos, the owner. It’s bonito fillets marinated in water and salt following an ancient island recipe. “Here, every small village has its own traditional dish, and all of them can be accompanied with ouzo.” A special ouzeri, called Ta Ouzotharapia. The owner, Yiannis Kritikos, runs around serving tables and advising customers. meze lighter ones, like salad, vegetables, and sardines; then moving on to cheese and tzatziki; and finally to meat and fish." Fotini Kritikos, 20, works in the family restaurant. He tells us that ouzo livens up the village festivals, where horse races are held, and that older people use it as a remedy for all their ills. "Although the lifestyle of the new generations is different today," he says. "When you go out on a picnic with friends, there's always ouzo. It's a symbol of camaraderie."

Many distilleries have their plants in Mytilene and the surrounding area. Some have lesser-known brands, but no less interesting for that, thanks to their roots and their potential for innovation. "My father founded the Eva distillery in 1995, and now my brother-in-law, Partikopoulos, a tall, gentle man in his forties, founded it. "We start with traditional products and raw materials and try to experiment, like with Serdiko, an ouzo with more intense aromas, or with mastic, which we launched in 2013." The Veto distillery is right in front of the ferry terminal. Owner Dimitrios Spentzas shows us his workshop. "It has a different nuance, which gives a different aroma." The story of this brand begins in Anatolia, in Pergamon. "In 1892, my great-grandfather Teoharis obtained a license to distill raki by special decree of the sultan," says Dimitrios, showing the framed documents bearing the seal of the Sublime Porta. "I use the family recipe, but I try to innovate by rebalancing the ingredients and adding other spices. Try it!"