Candlelight: a candlelit dinner under the stars of the Costa Brava

S'AgaróWe're probably in one of the most beautiful places in the country. This is easy to say, but Agaró is a scenic and historical gem. that has been preserved from urban depredation other areas of the Mediterranean coast. Specifically, we are in theHostal de La Gavina, historic and iconic hotel, which we associate with Josep Pla or Frank Sinatra, a privileged place that's becoming increasingly accessible thanks to its culinary offerings. We'll quickly review the three dining options, from simplest to most sophisticated, led by José Pulido. First, as soon as you arrive, there's a pleasant terrace for tapas (affordable for all budgets). This is the gateway for many people who then decide to try the other two restaurants. Facing the pool, we find Garbí, which is a true delight and open to everyone; don't be afraid to step inside. You'll find fresh fish and Mediterranean cuisine executed without flourish but with precision. And finally, the jewel in the crown and the restaurant to which we'll dedicate this article: Candlelight.

Candlelight is a romantic restaurant with an atmosphere that no description will do justice. As its chef, Oriol Fernández, says, it's a place that "transports you back in time." It reminds him of a restaurant in Paris at the turn of the century and he says it's a little trip back in time. "There's no other place like this. I haven't seen anything like it," adds Pulido. This restaurant has two versions. Until Midsummer's Day, service is held inside the dining room, and after the festival, it's served outside on a bucolic, candlelit terrace, as the restaurant's name suggests. Whether inside or outside, while you're there, Nani's live piano plays, gracefully reading the diners and accompanying the evening with her music. A real treat.

Candlelight offers two menus, one seasonal and the other based on the restaurant's greatest achievements. The foundation has been laid by star chef Romain Fornell. He closely monitors Fernández's ideas and designs and approves what is served. He has set the bar very high, and through his demands and trust in Fernández, he has given him enough room to grow and forge his own path. This has shaped Candlelight's unique personality, which aspires to reach the highest possible level in the restaurant scene.

A chef since forever.

Oriol Fernández is from Sant Celoni and comes from a family of restaurateurs. Although he's barely 25, his talent and interest in classic French cuisine make him a perfect chef for this location. Fernández participated in the Bocuse d'Or with Albert Boronat, and it was through him that he met Romain Fornell. He worked at Alain Ducasse's restaurant in Paris, at Lasarte in Barcelona, ​​​​and for the past two seasons, after finishing his season at La Gavina, he returns to the Carbon restaurant in the Ambassador Zermatt in Switzerland, also managed by Fornell.

As for Candlelight's culinary offering, it's worth highlighting the delicacy with which Fernández integrates seasonal and local ingredients with a meticulous and aesthetic technique. The opening, with its "homage to France," is very powerful, followed by the elegance of the asparagus, the exuberance of the shrimp, and the personality of the double-cooked pigeon. The balance of some dishes is on par with the finest kitchens. But the dining room, which is extremely important, is also. Sommelier Florian David is so good at his job that he makes it seem effortless. He captures whoever is in front of him and tailors the pairing. Put him to the test. He has a good wine cellar behind him, his choices are unpredictable, and if you wish, he has suggestions that will practically keep you in the Empordà region.

Candlelight restaurant opened its doors in 1960. The chandeliers were designed especially for the restaurant. The desire to open gave it its name, which at the time was extremely modern. Many foreigners now come back every year, but also many Catalans who stop by when the warm weather arrives and come to eat there. Once you've eaten in this corner of the world, you'll most likely want to come back.