Agustina's pig's trotters: "Catalan cuisine wants this, the sizzle, Catalan cuisine is time."

First chapter of Empar Moliner's Wise Cooking series dedicated to vindicating the culinary legacy of our grandmothers.

12/06/2025
4 min
El llegat gastronòmic de les nostres àvies

Well, look, my name is Agustina Oliveras Calsina. I was born... wait for it...! On September 10, 1942. I was born in the countryside. But we didn't live like farmers at home. My father, since farming wasn't enough to make a living, immediately bought a truck and transported the bricklayers. He'd done this all his life.

The ingredients.
Detail of the pig's feet plate.

And me? Well, a family at home asked if I could be hired as a maid at 14, to take care of a child.watch herAnd my family said yes, but on one condition: "She must still go to school." And yes, yes, I went to live with that family. I stayed for four years, but at night I went "for refreshers," as they called it. With the nuns. There were always volunteers who went to help people who couldn't (the poor, so to speak).something). So, there was very little schooling! And until the age of eighteen or so,lessAnd then I spent some time with my uncles in Barcelona, who didn't have any children. Two years too. And then I came back. The young people from these parts used to go dancing on Sundays in the dance hall we had, and I met my husband because he also came back here. The boys from Sant Vicenç, from Manresa… All couples have been like that. Here, almost all the girls—we were all girls—married boys fromaroundIt was fun to go dancing, to laugh. This was our life. That was it. And before I got married, I also worked in the factory, like everyone else. It was three years.

The kitchen of Agustina Oliveras Calsina.
Agustina and her husband eating pig's feet.

And once I was married, I didn't work outside the country anymore. I got married and my children were born... And I've always been a farmer. They went to Terrassa to sell. And I stayed home with the little ones, and we went to the fields to harvest... I'd never cooked, because at my parents' house we stayed with a grandmother and an aunt.learnfrom my mother-in-law. My mother-in-law liked everything very well done, the fire always low, andwatch it, because Catalan cuisine wants this, the simmering, Catalan cuisine takes time. It's a matter of seeing things, I learned. But while she was here, she did it. And doing it little by little is very important. Because if you do it quickly, you're in trouble...

Agustina preparing the dish.

When my father-in-law got sick (and that's just getting older) and my mother-in-law was already retired and couldn't do much, I took care of myself. Always chipping away and always working hard. Because you have to think... You have to think that right here in front of you, on the other side of the road, there were all apple orchards, a field of Golden apples. In our country they called it "The House of Fruit." There was everything. Plum trees, pear trees... Further on, do you see? It was split in two, and in the top corner there were peaches, those tiny yellow ones, summer ones. Just a pass... And in the bottom corner there were pears. But everything we had in 2000 was swept away by the flood. Nothing was left.

Crochet bean fear feet.
The ingredients before cooking.

It was nighttime, my husband was gone, having gone to sell some goods. Grandma and I were there. Both of us alone. And here, so dark, I heard the thunder coming from Montserrat Mountain. And I said to myself: "Agustina, what are you doing?" What could I do? And I thought: "You know what? Go get a bag of sawdust." Because we had sawdust, other downpours. I went to the tractor garage, and I grabbed that bag, but the water kept coming in, and I was afraid I wouldn't make it. I left the bag, ran up, and said to my mother-in-law, who was sleeping: "Grandma! Come on! Let's go up to the roof! We have to leave, Grandma!" And Grandma said in a hoarse voice: "I'm not going up... I can't go up." And we hunkered down, however we could and wherever we could, because the garage was already collapsing. And the bag I had left there was right here in front of me. The water took everything, left us nothing...

Yeah, look, we've been rebuilding, working hard... Machines? We didn't find any. The tractor was outside, with a tanker, and it took it away. They found the tanker in Monistrol! This is where the water comes from Montserrat. The fruit trees were all ruined. It was the fruit house. And that's how it goes.

Agustina outside her house.

And now I'm here. The neighbors always tell me I'm a good cook. I don't think it's that big of a deal, but look, for the Llenega festival all the young people want me to make a dish, and for a few years now they've been giving me theprizeFrom the contest. The way I cook? There are other methods, but I do it like I do at home. The way we're making this dish today, they'd say I'm complicating my life, because to make this, preparing it, I've been... You can count! You don't want to know when I've been there. Cooking takes time, but a cook clears their mind.

Crochet Pig's Feet with Beans

The recipe I'm going to make for you is some pig's trotters with crocheted beans.

Ingredients:

-Two pig's feet

-A pinch of baking soda

-A handful of flour

-Extra virgin olive oil

-An onion

-A leek

-A carrot

-Two hanging tomatoes

-A small glass of cognac

-All

-A bunch of aromatic herbs (thyme, bay leaf...)

-A handful of crochet beans.

-For the bite: almonds and pine nuts

-Water

-Salt and pepper

To make the pig's feet:

-I ask for them to be cut into quarters. From a foot, four pieces. I always do it this way, because I think it's more even. Otherwise, they'll look like they're curling up on you.

-We rub them well with baking soda and let them rest for a couple or three hours.

-When I'm done, I wash them thoroughly. And I leave them well drained and dried.

-Then I flour them. And in the pan, with a good splash of oil, I seal them and remove them.

-I chopped the onion, leek, and carrot in the pan. The garlic was fine.

-In the same pot, which already has olive oil, I add the onion, leek, and carrot. I add a pinch of salt to each vegetable, to "make it weep." Then I add two hanging tomatoes, split open. We call it "hanging" because in our homes, we used to harvest them and hang them. And from there, we would chop them.

-If I want the onion to cry a little more, I cover it up.

-So, I add all the herbs: bay leaf, rudder... And I mix it all together. When it's done, I add a little liquid. It could be water. I use water, but some people prefer vegetable broth.

-I let it cook for at least two hours. But you shouldn't look at the clock. You should check if it's cooked.

-Then I make the mixture: with a handful of almonds, walnuts, some garlic, and parsley, if necessary. And I mix it together.

-What I sometimes do is remove the tar, along with the oiliness the feet have created, combine it with the ground beef, and blend it. I get it to the consistency I like; not too thick, not too light.

-At the end, in the last five minutes, we add the beans.

To crochet beans:

-I soften them the day before.

-I drain them, then boil them in cold water. Especially cold water. And on low heat.

-We watch to make sure it doesn't boil over, and if it does, we add water to "scare" them off. I'll use foam when it's time. I'll have them for just under an hour.

Grades:

Bresa is one of the most common techniques in Catalan cuisine. In French, it's called mirepoix , and it consists of cutting vegetables into small cubes measuring about two and a half centimeters on each side.

Sofrito is a Catalan cuisine preparation that serves as a starting point for many dishes. As gastronome Jaume Fàbrega explains, who discusses sofrito in many of his books (the latest being La cocina de Lleida, Franja y Vall d'Aran , published by Viena Editors), it was already being made in the Middle Ages. It's made with onion and tomato, and optionally, garlic, pepper, carrot, wine, etc., combined in different proportions.

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