The great journey through gastronomic Catalonia

We're going back to the markets

Stallholders from all over Catalonia recall the social, cultural and human value of markets as spaces of neighborhood life

In a country where fast food has gained ground, municipal markets are asserting themselves as spaces of trust, quality, and community. From the stalls of the Mercat del Léon in Girona to the aisles of the Mercat Central in Tarragona, the vendors demonstrate that these markets are much more than just places to shop: they are vital hubs of neighborhood life. We spoke with young and veteran stallholders who embody the present and future of these iconic spaces.

Trades that endure

The story of Pescadería Salvador, a Costa Brava fishmonger since 1966, exemplifies generational succession and a firm commitment to the municipal market as a space for the future. Since Xavier Salvador's grandfather founded the business in Tossa de Mar, the family has kept the trade alive and now operates two shops – one in Tossa and another in Cassà de la Selva. After decades focused on the traditional shop model, just over a year ago Xavier decided to take a step forward: opening a stall in the Mercat del Lleó in Girona.

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This transition presented a new challenge: "Despite being the third generation, we're novices in this type of business," confesses Salvador, who took over from a historic stall, Peixos Pol, which was retiring after eighty years of service. This opening to the market wasn't just a business decision, but also a commitment to reconnecting with the community and with a sales approach that values proximity and direct contact. According to Salvador, the market is irreplaceable: "The existence of markets and traditional small businesses is vital. They need the support of the people."

The fishmonger reflects deeply on the competition from the large players in the fast-moving, mass-market consumer goods industry. He acknowledges that modern life favors convenience, but emphasizes the sacrifice this entails in terms of quality and customer service: "We know how convenient supermarkets are, but we all know that authenticity lies in small shops. Their daily, personal touch is unmatched," he asserts.

His daily routine involves keeping a watchful eye on the stalls, selecting the freshest fish and seafood, and serving them with dedication. "What satisfies us most is seeing customers return and tell us that the dishes turned out well thanks to our fish. This is the result of a job well done," he says. Salvador champions the local sourcing of his products: most of his fish comes from Catalan fish markets and a local fishing family. "We highly value the product from our fishermen and, in addition, we contribute to the local economy," he emphasizes, thus advocating for the chain of trust between producer and retailer.

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In Tarragona, the history of the market stallholders is reflected in the story of Cansaladers Bardolet, a stall with over fifty years of experience. Vicenç Bardolet represents the third generation of a family dedicated to the butcher and delicatessen trade. Their presence in the Central Market has kept the artisanal spirit alive: they prepare fresh products daily, such as hams and cooked meats, and also specialize in other meats.

For Bardolet, his work schedule is a testament to his dedication. His days are long; he arrives at the market every day at six in the morning to start preparing the products and setting up his stall. But he says it doesn't bother him, since his work is his passion: "I defend my products with all my heart," he affirms.

Bardolet's added value lies in traceability and trust: "I know the farmers," he emphasizes. The Tarragona butcher maintains that his job is not just to sell, but to guarantee a product of known origin and handled with care.

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Despite being sixty years old and facing uncertainty about who will take over, Vicente remains steadfast in his defense of the profession and the role of the market. He is willing to teach the trade to anyone genuinely interested because he believes in the future of these spaces. "A supermarket doesn't value our work. A market, on the other hand, does. We have to assert the value of our profession and our work," he says. In a broader sense, he concludes that "markets are needed more than ever because they are an integral part of city life and leisure," highlighting the social role of markets.

Young people at the forefront

In Barcelona, ​​Frutería Giró in the Sant Antoni Market is a prime example of generational female leadership and adaptation to the digital world. Twenty-four-year-old Marina Larregola is the fifth generation of women behind the counter. She studied political science but realized she wanted to follow in her mother's footsteps. "The best thing is when a customer tells me they really enjoyed the fruit I sold them." –says–. That's what makes everything make sense."

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Marina has transformed her market stall into a veritable stage set, combining the sale of fresh produce with a prolific digital content creation effort. She's one of the young voices who has successfully brought the spirit of the market to social media, especially Instagram and TikTok, where some of her videos have already surpassed one hundred thousand views. Through these channels, Marina not only showcases her expertise but also offers practical advice, recommends seasonal recipes, and actively encourages young people to rediscover the value of markets.

This new approach is key to breaking down stereotypes: "When I explain that I'm a fruit vendor, sometimes people look at me with an air of superiority. However, I'm very clear on this: there are no first-class or second-class jobs. If you do it with your heart, it can be much more fulfilling than working for social status," she says. La Marina warns that there is still a lack of young role models who demonstrate that this is a modern and fulfilling profession: "If we don't make it visible that it's a fulfilling and dignified career option, we won't have a new generation to take over."

The farmers' markets

Farmers' markets, often held on a rotating or weekly basis in neighborhoods and towns, complete the picture of local and sustainable products. These spaces minimize the distribution chain as much as possible and connect producers directly with consumers. An example of this can be found at the Barris Nord Market in Lleida, where Maria José Forcada sells vegetables every Saturday morning. Maria José is a farmer and only sells her own locally grown produce.

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The decision to have a direct presence at these markets is closely tied to production: "We have a stall at the market because I'm a farmer, and this way I can manage when I can bring produce based on the harvest," she explains. This statement underscores one of the great added values of these markets: the seasonality and natural growing cycle, impossible to replicate for large supermarkets that seek to homogenize their offerings. Maria José explains that this direct relationship generates unquestionable trust: "Customers know the produce is mine and they notice the difference when they eat it. This makes me very proud."

The generational shift is both a challenge and an opportunity in which farmers' markets play a crucial role. They contribute to the value of the product, but above all, they allow producers to earn a living through direct sales. Furthermore, they offer an opportunity for product promotion and fostering direct customer loyalty.