This is how Leo XIV's first vacation as Pope of Rome will be

BarcelonaFor centuries, the popes chose the village of Castel Gandolfo to spend the summer because it was cooler than torrid Rome. The first to break this tradition was Francis, but it seems that Leo XIV has decided to resume it, something that its residents await with enthusiasm and curiosity, as will the pilgrims who will follow him, reactivating tourism and local commerce.

Castel Gandolfo is a village of about 8,000 inhabitants located about 30 kilometers south of Rome, atop an extinct volcano, whose crater now welcomes the idyllic waters of Lake Albano. Its elevated position means that in summer it is airier and cooler than Rome. In fact, the conditions conducive to living there were already known two thousand years ago, when Emperor Domitian built a huge vacation villa. The popes arrived much later, beginning in the 17th century.

A 17th-century palace

The papal domains begin with the Papal Palace, inaugurated by Urban VIII in 1626, which offers a stunning view of the lake, but also houses two astronomical observatories and a sprawling garden with several small palaces inside. The palace of Castel Gandolfo is key in the long history of the popes, to the point that it is under the jurisdiction of the Holy See. Pius XII and Paul VI died there; it provided refuge during World War II; John Paul II considered it a second Vatican, and it was from its balcony that Benedict XVI bid farewell to the world in his unusual resignation.

The election of Francis in 2013 interrupted this tradition, as the Argentine pontiff preferred to spend the summer at his usual residence, Casa Santa Marta. Perhaps that's why he decided to open the palace to the public as a museum, as well as the gardens, which he visited only once during his papacy, in March 2013, to greet Ratzinger.

The Arrival of Leo XIV

Now, the new Pope of Rome has opted to resume the pre-Francis tradition. From Sunday until July 20, Leo XIV will settle in Castel Gandolfo, although he will reside in the Villa Barberini and not in the palace, which remains a museum to respect Francis's legacy. The pontiff will be able to rest within the villa's high walls, which guarantee complete privacy, stroll through its lush gardens, or swim in its pool, as his passion for sports is well known.

His confirmed public appearances for the summer, moreover, are few. On July 13, he is scheduled to celebrate Mass in the village church, a small Baroque gem by Bernini. On the 20th, he will visit the neighboring town of Albano and then go to the Vatican, before returning to his summer home for the August feast day.

A very well received stay

Maurizio runs a souvenir shop right across from the Papal Palace. "There's a lot of commotion because we've been waiting thirteen years for the return of a Pope," the shopkeeper admits in a statement reported by Efe. Naturally, the pontiffs have also been a boon for local commerce. In the center, there are several shops filled with all kinds of objects bearing their likenesses—postcards, keychains, and figurines—and there's no shortage of portraits in every restaurant or cafe.

For this reason, Francis's long absence was poorly received by a significant portion of the shopkeepers, at least at first. "It was noticeable at first, but then he opened the palace and gardens to the public and we overcame it well," adds Maurizio. Confirmation that Castel Gandolfo remains interesting to visitors can be seen these days when, despite the heat wave, the town's main square is crossed by groups of tourists arriving by bus or train. In fact, there's a sign in the village church that reads: "Welcome, Papa Leo."

Despite the local excitement surrounding Leo XIV's vacation, it seems that it will not be as profitable for merchants or restaurateurs as it might seem. According to the chronicles in situ, the absence of Leo XIV memorabilia is striking. "We don't have any images of him because we haven't been given permission yet. The only thing that's been published is a Jubilee book. With the other popes, postcards and images were already circulating the next day or at the latest 48 hours later. We're waiting patiently," explained a shopkeeper, who sees his chance to make a killing slipping away. The restaurateurs explain that the days the Pope is in Castel Gandolfo aren't exactly the best for them, because the security detail is so tight that it causes a lot of inconvenience for both visitors and local residents, who travel to other towns.