Tour of Catalonia

When the greatest cyclist of all time impressed Berguedà

Fifty years ago, Eddy Merckx impressed Queralt, a climb that has been revived in the last two years for the Volta

The mural dedicated to Eddy Merckx in Casserres
Tour of Catalonia
28/03/2025
4 min

BarcelonaHis name occasionally appeared in conversations in many bars in Berguedà. Whether in the morning, when amateur cyclists were returning from pedaling and having a hearty breakfast, or in conversations that stretched into the early hours. They all talked about the Cannibal. Surely the greatest cyclist of all time, Eddy Merckx. The Belgian, five-time Tour de France winner, five-time Giro d'Italia winner, and three-time world champion. A collector of trophies and medals who never had enough. His name continued to be mentioned in the bars of Berguedà, where cycling is a hot topic. But more than a few people thought the veterans were exaggerating: had the best cyclist in the world really ridden there?

Of course he did. It was 50 years ago, during the Semana Catalana (Catalan Week). Proof that, logically, Merckx also won. It was a curious third stage, as it consisted of two sections. First, a normal stage from Organyà to Gironella. And then a time trial between Casserres and the sanctuary of Santa Maria de Queralt. The Belgian impressed with a time of 41 minutes and 13 seconds, 19 seconds less than Luis Ocaña. His ascent of Queralt is etched in the collective memory of many Berguedà residents. Young riders followed him everywhere, that day half a century ago. The road was packed to watch him fly up slopes where the strongest usually put their feet down, tired. Merckx showed off in Berguedà, but he suffered. In fact, he said: "It was the toughest time trial of my life." On those same slopes, the rider who will challenge Merckx, Slovenian Tadej Pogačar, a contender to be considered the greatest of all time, shone in 2024. Now both are part of the local landscape, as two large-format murals have been created. One located in Queralt, by Mateu Targa, links the victories of Merckx and Pogacar on the same stage, separated by half a century. And the other, next to the start point of that time trial, in Casserres, by Elena Boix, commemorates the iconic figure of the Cannibal.

The mural dedicated to Merckx and Pogacar

This Saturday, For the second consecutive edition of the Tour of Catalonia, The Queralt sanctuary will once again host the queen stage of the race. It will be the penultimate stage, the one that will decide who will triumph in Barcelona on Sunday. The lineup looks hard to beat, with a fierce duel between Primoz Roglic and Juan Ayuso, separated by just a second. In La Molina, the Valencian won by a few centimeters, in Montserrat, the Slovenian by a head. Now it's time for another duel in a race in which Merckx and Pogacar shone in a stage unfortunately shortened by the forecast of strong winds. The stage will be 118.6 kilometers, excluding the Coll de Pradell.

Last year, after years of work, Berguedà was able to host the Volta again with a stage that impressed. It was a huge celebration, with a crowd never seen before. This year it was time to repeat, taking advantage of the 50-year record of Merckx's passage. Last year, the stage was a resounding success. "It was like a stage of the Tour," said the winner, Tadej Pogačar. It was what the Volta was looking for: a mountain stage with so much passion on the road that the cyclists, upon finishing, would call it marvelous. Pogačar's display helped. The Slovenian hopes to be remembered like Merckx, and for now, Casserres has also been given a mural to commemorate his 2024 success.

The Cycling Spring

To understand why Berguedà has become the region where cyclists are most cared for, we must talk about Primavera Ciclista, a non-profit group made up of cycling enthusiasts that became official in 2024 and has made cycling a part of the local identity. Not only with these stages, but also by promoting cycling among children and filling the calendar with events such as talks, exhibitions, and popular races. In fact, this year the novelty will be that Berguedà will also host the main stage of the Women's Tour of Catalonia, which will be held in June. To warm up, beforehand, there will be the so-called Women's Cycling Flame, a non-competitive cycle ride that runs through different towns in the region, from Avià to Bagà, to promote women's cycling. In addition, mountain bike races are once again being held, and talks have been given, such as for example with Josep Pesarrodona, winner of the 1976 Vuelta a España and a contemporary of Eddy Merckx, with whom he competed in many races. Coinciding with the passage of the Vuelta Ciclismo through Berguedà, Berga's Carrer Major will be transformed into a gastronomic meeting place.

All with the aim of ensuring that Berguedà thrives on cycling all year round, not just with the Volta. And to do so in a responsible and sustainable way. The organizers of the Volta have found allies in Berga to expand an event that last year experienced a historic era, that of Pogačar's triumph, with thousands of people cheering on the American Sepp Kuss, a man who utters phrases like "Long live Berguedà." Despite living in Andorra, Kuss has been training in Berguedà for years, as his partner, a girl from Tiana, has family in Vilada.

Berguedà has gone from not having any stages of the Vuelta from 1959 to 2024, to being a territory that all cycling lovers value for events such as the Portal Attack, The race that every September fills the streets of Berga's old town with cyclists on old bicycles, dressed as athletes of the past, in a race with a festive atmosphere. Or for these climbs to Queralt, thanks to which the luckiest can say that when they were young, they saw Merckx, and now they've seen Pogačar or Roglic, passing by their house in Berguedà.

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