We open the melon of hotel breakfasts: what to do with leftovers and why the coffee is usually bad.

MadridFor many years, hotel breakfast has been a service that establishments would provide, but it didn't receive the same attention as other services they offered. Frozen croissants, poor-quality coffee, and a lot of food waste at the end of the service. This particular area has been the focus of many establishments, who have decided to improve it, even if only to reduce costs. Some have even brought breakfast to the culinary level of a gourmet restaurant. We analyze the changes that have occurred in recent years and which ones will take longer to arrive. In fact, according to food critic Daniel Salas in his presentation, The boundaries of the best hotel breakfast At the HIP conference held in Madrid, hotels are getting their act together, "just like when they saw that people were going out to eat at the restaurant across the street and not staying at theirs."

Playing with psychology

One of the key issues is the model offered. We all have in mind the display of food in front of us that a buffet entails. But this is also linked to the risk of food waste. David Mora, a tourism consultant and trainer, explains to ARA that little progress has been made, although there have been changes, and that we now also find cases of hotels that follow best practice models. The reason a buffet model is offered in most cases has to do primarily with volume. There isn't enough manpower in the dining room or kitchen to handle this volume of work in such a short time. However, Mora points out some changes that have occurred: from the calamitous single-serve meals (with the packaging they generate) brought on by the pandemic, which have been left in small hotels, to psychological factors that allow for buffets to be prepared while reducing waste.

An example of the power of perception has been smaller trays. Also, shrinking plates. This way, people have to get up more often. And once service is over, part of the leftovers is used for the staff's meal. In fact, the Barcelona Hotel Association also explains that some establishments have agreements with soup kitchens.

Jordi Conesa, executive chef of the Grand Hyatt Hotel in Barcelona, ​​​​explains his case to ARA. He serves an average of 250 breakfasts a day. On peak days, up to 400. To minimize waste, the day before, they review how many lunches will be served. Less than 5% of guests don't show up. But there are also people who sign up at the last minute. When they have a clear forecast, they "refresh" what's available in small batches. For example, they don't bake all the pastries at once. Although she acknowledges that there are products that cannot be reused, some of the leftovers go to the staff cafeteria, and some are individually packaged and frozen. When they have enough, they call the NGO Nutrition Without Borders, and they reuse them. While it's true that "in an ideal world we try not to have waste, in a buffet it's impossible," says Conesa. Conesa also explains that they must take into account the diversity of their diners, such as the fact that some people are vegan or observe Ramadan. But that hasn't stopped them from adding local products that tourists also highly value, such as ensaimadas, crystal cake, or churros with chocolate.

Catalonia, ahead

For Carlos Hernández, director of Food Design Company and creator of the best hotel breakfast competition, what's needed here is a law, an umbrella that mandates a series of practices, just as there is a tourist tax and customers are informed about it. In this sense, Mora explains that Catalonia is far ahead of the rest of the country when it comes to sustainability. However, he points out that when a law is implemented, sanctions must be foreseen and enforced, as should be the case with the new circular economy and waste law.

And speaking of laws, in the Balearic Islands one was passed requiring breakfast to contain 10% local produce. However, this regulation has come up against a lack of raw materials to supply the entire sector. Specifically, adding local produce has been one of the improvements many hotels have introduced. The larger the hotel, and especially if it's part of a large chain, the more expensive it is, as decisions are made elsewhere and there's a tendency toward standardization, which repeat customers also seek.

One who has a strong opinion is José Manuel Pascual, the chef at the Hotel Eunice in Salamanca, present at the HIP and a finalist for best hotel breakfast last year. He doesn't serve orange juice unless it's in season; however, then they offer an alternative that's equally or better. And what he doesn't serve in any context are croissants. "Here we have a different pastry tradition. If I serve croissants, people will choose the croissant, even if it's a fifth-range product." Although most of his clients are European, he believes in explaining it to them and building their trust. His menu is freshly cooked and he prefers to "avoid the word buffet". Of course, they have 13 rooms and they make a maximum of 30 breakfasts a day.

The guest profile

David Mora also highlights the need to keep in mind that a functional hotel, where people have a routine breakfast (or don't have one at all), is not the same as holiday establishments, where people expect that feeling of opulence.

Sergio Jiménez, food and beverage director at Boho Club Marbella, considered the best in Spain this year, was the one who couldn't avoid the buffet, even though he tried. After receiving a lot of complaints, they had to change course and offer a buffet. Carlos Hernández, who tried to eliminate the porridge At a hotel he advised, he also hit a wall. After receiving many complaints from British guests, he had to reintroduce himself. "Do you know who a hotel manager is? Tripadvisor," says Hernández. He explains that this is why it's important to complain, and that the problem with coffee, which he often buys from abroad, has to do with the fact that good coffee requires labor, and that people apparently don't complain enough. He's convinced that if guests complained, this would change quickly.

Success stories

In Catalonia we have a success story, which is the best breakfast in a hotel boutique from that year. We found it in Girona, and it's Casa Cacao. The hotel's manager, Anna Payet, explains that from the beginning, they were clear that the experience had to resemble that of a gourmet restaurant, and that they had to be ambassadors for local producers. So much so that after breakfast at the Mercado del León, at the Can Romagós stop, they welcome people who want to take home a white broth or a sausage after having tried it at Casa Cacao. They explain where the jams, eggs, milk, and cheeses come from, which are now from La Xiquella. The breakfast they serve, on a very pleasant terrace, has several courses, and there's practically no waste because if someone is full, they offer the option of taking it home. Payet explains that something so simple often makes the difference, because the consumer doesn't ask for it, but when it's offered to them, they say yes. And so, they can take the chocolate-filled chucho from Casa Cacao home with them, return home later, or share it with someone else.

Other places have been recognized for their sustainability, such as Els Casals in Sagàs; Hostal Grau in Barcelona; and the Garden chain, which has a person in charge of this department. Even large chains, such as Iberostar. Experts point out that there is also a shift in sensibilities: young people are more aware of the need to be sustainable, so they are more open to changes, "which just need to be well explained," says Mora.