The opera singer who could have been invented by the Swiss artist on Petritxol Street in Barcelona

BarcelonaIt's not documented, there's no way to find it written down in contemporary newspapers or books, but Joan Mach, owner of Granja Dulcinea (c. Petritxol, 2) in Barcelona, maintains that it was his father, an opera singer, who one day thought of putting whipped cream on top of the melted chocolate. "He said it would remind me of the mountains of Switzerland, the ones he had seen on his travels to give concerts," says his son, who shares his father's name. Whatever the case, Granja Dulcinea is a cult place for those who like to dip their melindro (sweet roll) or churros ("they're more fashionable than ever," he says) in hot chocolate, which they prepare by mixing two different brands.

It all began in 1930—he'll be 100 in five years—when Joan Mach's grandfather rented the winery at number two on Petritxol Street. "The winery became known as Àngel's, because the writer Àngel Guimerà often went there." In fact, the writer, born in the Canary Islands, lived at number four on the same street, right next door, hence the familiarity with the establishment. Today, to commemorate its history, an illustration of the writer's work hangs in the barn. Sea and sky Framed and well-placed, just above a fake fireplace, it adds warmth to the first room of the farmhouse; the second is in the loft, accessed via a wooden staircase.

In 1941, Joan Mach's father wanted to convert his business. "It was the post-war period, and he wanted to change the type of clientele that frequented the winery, so he thought about a farm, to make breakfasts and snacks; besides, La Pallaresa was already on the same street," and further along, Granja Viader was also operating. With this goal in mind, the family began the conversion work and hired a designer, who even proposed a name for the new business. "He suggested we name it Bluebells, because in the farmhouse there were two small bells, on either side of the main room, designed to be rung with the help of a braided cord to call the waiter." Today the bells are still there, but are not used. The name of Bluebells It is not on any sign either. However, there is the one of Dulcinea, which Joan Mach's father decided on because the building's caretaker read Don Quixote, Miguel de Cervantes. And the trimmings aren't there either, but right across the street is a well-known trimmings shop.

We continue in the Dulcinea room. Beneath the painting of the writer Àngel Guimerà, an old photo is framed. It's of Joan Mach's great-grandfather, who had worked as a waiter at the historic Folies Bergère theater, dedicated to the music hall, which was located on Barcelona's Paral·lel avenue. The image, located above the fireplace below Guimerà's, contemplates the constant comings and goings of the waiters and waitresses, dressed in black and white, who serve the melted chocolate with the white mountain of whipped cream on top. "We make the cream on the spot, thanks to a very prestigious Italian machine, Carpigiani, which allows it to be expelled under pressure, made to order," Mach points out. When it comes to eating it, you could almost say that the churros win out over the sponge cakes, which come from Sant Hilari Sacalm. "And regarding the amount of melted chocolate we serve in a day, it's perhaps 100 liters; it all varies depending on whether it's morning or afternoon; morning is always when there's the most demand."

Cream, more fashionable than ever

To continue, the chocolate shop Dulcinea reveals that the sweets it serves (croissants, ensaimadas) are from the Horno Balboa in Barceloneta. And there's an essential detail, which encompasses all the farms from that era in the city: "Catalan creams, rice pudding, and flans are three of our most prized preparations, which we always make." So much so, that Joan Mach claims that They are more fashionable than ever, especially the cream, which burns in front of the customer.

And returning to the topic of the Swiss, a few final notes. In other countries, if you order a Swiss in a café, you'll be eating a buttered bun. In the Basque Country itself, the Swiss, made with butter, is also served with more butter alongside the spread. Gastronomic historian Núria Bàguena confirms the lack of documentation on the origin of the Swiss as it is understood in Catalonia, as a cup of hot chocolate with whipped cream. And yet, anyone who enters Granja Dulcinea and speaks to the waiters and owner will get their own version: "From looking at those snowy mountains when he was singing, Joan Mach thought that the melted chocolate they served on his farm would go well with a mountain of whipped cream," she concludes. The Swiss costs €4.20; with churros, €2.50 more.