The ice cream parlor with the queues opens a new one dedicated to Catalan products

BarcelonaThe small ice cream shop on Carrer Enric Granados is always visible from a distance because of the long line that runs along the facade. People wait patiently in line because DelaCrem's ice cream is some of the best in Barcelona. Its owner, Massimo Pignata (Pineròl, Piedmont, 1975) learned everything he could from his native Italy, where he was inspired by the Grom ice cream shop in Turin. When he came to Barcelona in 2010, he had a clear goal: to make a creamy ice cream that would be enjoyed by everyone. "I didn't have a clear business plan, just what kind of ice cream I wanted to make," explains Pignata.

In 2019, he opened a second location on Passeig de Sant Joan, where he has his R&D workshop and produces ice cream for the restaurant industry. Now he's opened his third location: DelaCrem Terra (Muntaner, 59, corner of Consell de Cent). The difference? On the one hand, he has his own recipes, and on the other, he adapts recipes for familiar flavors to replace foreign ingredients with local ones. Here, the hazelnuts won't be predominantly from Piedmont, but from Reus. The honey with rosemary comes from Castelldefels; the saffron comes from Montsec; and the pistachios come from Les Garrigues instead of Sicily, which will have a token presence.

As we speak, the delivery girl appears, carrying fruit and vegetables from Can Fisas, at the Mercado de la Concepción. Pignata never stops creating with what's in season. Precisely today, which is the first day of DelaCrem Terra, he was peeling mandarins and has already thought of two new ice creams: one with 70% chocolate and mandarin and another with cava, mandarin, and elderflower. He doesn't get his inspiration from other ice cream makers, but instead seeks out suppliers. Like those at El Tros de Ordal. Or he goes to places like the Fòrum Gastronòmic, where he discovered the Montseny chestnut. His years here have allowed him to discover the gastronomy and typical products. Now he knows, for example, that Maó cheese is a perfect substitute for Parmesan.

Enric Granados's establishment had been closed for 11 years when he took it over. He says he barely slept during the first four years. "I'm not an entrepreneur; I create ice cream. Then, when I had children, I thought I needed a business structure if I wanted to be a father. I've delegated what I don't know how to do and I trust these people. And I dedicate myself to sourcing ingredients and creating ice cream." And the restaurant business has had a lot to do with this. "It's a line that came naturally; I didn't know this existed." The first to show interest in DelaCrem was Fragments Café, in Place de la Concorde. Pignata now serves around 50 establishments, all in Barcelona, ​​because he delivers orders by bicycle. "The person I really like working with is Oriol Casals, from Teórico Taverna, who called me yesterday and asked what I had in season. I like creating ice cream with him." He also invented a vegan cardamom ice cream for Casa Amàlia. He also explains that they will also have collaborations with chefs on Passeig de Sant Joan, exclusively at that DelaCrem.

The success seen on the street

On the first day of opening at DelaCrem Terra, there's a long line. It's normal; they give away free ice cream, and the locals are very interested in trying it. The question of lines is inevitable. "I deal with them well and badly," says Pignata. "Every time they send me a photo, I'd go to work. My father was self-employed, and in my house, home and work were one and the same. I see the line and wonder if it's because there are too many people or because we're too slow." Indeed, one of the reasons for the new location is to "de-stress" Enric Granados's, so they've looked for a location nearby.

Success often comes with offers. Pignata has been asked to become a franchisee, but he doesn't want to. "I don't think large groups can provide the kind of love I think they should. At least I'm not capable of it," he says. He acknowledges that the quality of ice cream in Barcelona has improved a lot. "When I opened, 15 years ago, there were truly artisanal ice cream shops. Now there are many more," she explains, although she admits she doesn't follow other ice cream shops on Instagram. The reason? "Because I'm very influenced and because I prefer to gossip about other businesses, like bakeries or chocolate shops."