Between the beach and the shelters: Tel Aviv under air raid sirens

Tel AvivAt eight in the morning, sirens blared across Israel. It's not just any noise: it's a metallic wail, long and insistent, that stops conversation mid-sentence and quickens everyone's pace. The sirens and cell phone alarms have marked the start of a day that many had predicted for weeks. In a matter of seconds, Tel Aviv emptied inwards: towards shelters, stairwells, parking lots, tunnels.

In Jaffa, in the south of the city, the contrast is almost surreal. The sea is a clear, luminous blue. It's perfectly sunny for laying out a towel. But the beach, usually full of umbrellas and tourists, is almost deserted today. Only about ten people stroll leisurely; some are walking their dogs, and a man continues paddleboarding as if the Mediterranean had nothing to do with what's happening above their heads.

Throughout the day, mobile phones have been buzzing with alerts: "Rocket and missile launch, Tel Aviv, Sur and Jaffa. Time to reach the safe room: one and a half minutes. Enter the safe space." The instructions are clear: take cover and avoid unnecessary movement.

Schools will remain closed until further notice, restaurants have shuttered, and many shops didn't even open. Some cafes have held on with their doors half-open, serving takeaway coffees to the few customers who eyed the sky with apprehension. "We have to close, we're only serving takeaway coffees... Everyone should go to a shelter. I'm going now," says the waiter as he collects the cups. "I don't feel unsafe, but you never know," he adds.

A few minutes later, a sharp noise shook the café: an intercepted missile over the sea had caused a white cloud to hang in the sky and a tremor that sent residents onto their balconies. Cats and roosters that live in the narrow streets of Jaffa ran out, trying to hide under cars.

In the sky, citizens could observe the operation of the interception system, the Iron Dome, as military planes and helicopters flew over the city. It feels like one boom, similar to the sound of thunder; then another. And then, there is silence. And again, the siren.

"It's strange... It's such a beautiful day, but with all the alerts, I've only managed to grab a little bread," a man remarks on the street, walking briskly toward the nearest shelter. If it weren't for the state of emergency declared in the country and the constant alarms, it would be a radiant Saturday.

"The war isn't going to stop us. Today is a spectacular day to go for a run, like we do every Saturday," says a young man from a group of runners. Next to him, a family strolls with their daughter, filming the calm sea with their phone. A few sailboats continue sailing peacefully. "We're out for a walk to celebrate my father's birthday," explains the young woman. "I don't think this is going to last more than two weeks. Or at least I hope so."

At midday, there was a brief lull on the Jaffa seafront. The sirens stopped, and more residents took advantage of the lull to go for a walk. According to preliminary military data, approximately 200 missiles have been launched from Iran toward Israel since the start of the offensive.

Empty highways

The journey between Jerusalem and Tel Aviv, usually an hour long and packed with cars, was almost ghostly today. The main highways were practically empty, and the trip took half an hour. The tunnels, normally simple passages between neighborhoods, became makeshift shelters: cars stopped with their hazard lights on and people sitting on the ground. This is one of the recommendations from the Home Front Command, the Israeli army command responsible for civil defense within Israel: if you are in a car, stop and seek shelter immediately. And people are obeying. "We'll do what the government says," a couple commented. "We trust them completely."

In the port of Jaffa, two fishermen gather their nets as the sun sets and the sky turns orange.

—Have you ever seen the city like this? —one of them asks.

"No, I don't think so. I have the feeling that everything can change in an instant, but at least today we tried to enjoy the day, right?" the other replies.

As dusk approaches, the interceptions continue and become more visible. Seven missiles enter the Tel Aviv sky. The Dome activates and detonates them in mid-air. They become reddish balls suspended for a few seconds before dissipating.

"Can you tell us what we should do?" two Argentinian tourists ask a group of journalists. They arrived in Tel Aviv a day ago for a church mission. They had planned to go to Haifa the next day. Now they just want to know where the nearest shelter is. They look to the sky every time they hear a bang. Another rocket is clearly visible: an upward line, a luminous tail, and then the white flash. Boom, another intercepted.