From Naoshima to Matarraña
“Art, architecture, and agriculture have many common enthusiasts and nourish each other. That's why we want to be a world-class cultural destination”. Christian Bourdais and Eva Albarrán are owners of contemporary art galleries in Madrid and Maó, but they have added a third one outdoors in Queretes, in Matarranya. “The only solution to the crisis facing the wine world is to integrate interests,” warns Bourdais. That's why they are betting on Venta d’Aubert, an enological project that celebrates forty years today and which, in its beginnings, was driven by Álvaro Palacios and Josep Lluís Pérez, references in Priorat. The first owners were Swiss. Upon reaching their eighties, they are looking for a successor. Preserving the spirit of the place was non-negotiable, and so four years ago they handed over the management to the gallerists Bourdais and Albarrán. From the beginning, there has been the idea that the winery should be a collective and living project, dialoguing with the natural heritage of Matarranya and the Ports of Tortosa-Beseit, “without the arrogance of ownership,” insists Christian Bourdais. And he adds: “I don't understand why this landscape is not more recognized. If they had it two hours from London or Paris, it would be the most expensive place in the world. Here, on the other hand, it is part of the depopulated Spain, but the most relevant thing is that it is authentic”.
They are proud of the sculpture park, thoughtfully and purposefully scattered among vineyards, olive trees, and forest: the Solo Sculpture Trail, which an article in the New York Times has ranked among the ten best in the world. They are also proud of giving architects artistic freedom to create modern buildings in the Solo Houses project, with surprising results such as the circular house where the landscape crosses the living space and is reflected in the pool. The wines allow you to get closer through tastings. “In the beginning, they were of French inspiration, but in thirty years there has been a great change because today much more interesting wines are produced in Spain,” acknowledges Christian Bourdais. Stefan Dorst and César Fernández Díaz lead the oenology, which today is moving towards a lighter and more agile style, although they maintain the classic range. A sparkling wine made from white Garnacha, a rosé, and a Monastrell red are examples. They exude frankness, and ecological and biodynamic practices in the field can be sensed. Labels designed by artists such as Claudia Comte or Angelika Markul, some of them limited edition, introduce the wine into unexpected circuits. Next year, they will begin the construction of a high-end hotel complex that will blend with the vegetation, designed by Smiljan Radić Clark, Pritzker Prize 2026. They are also planning a new art gallery. Their benchmark is the Naoshima museum island in Japan.