No traffic lights, no smoke, and no speed limits: this is Bhutan, the land of happiness

A sign that says "Welcome to the Gross Happiness CountryIt welcomes you to Paro International Airport in Bhutan. Next to it is a large portrait of the king and queen and a sign reminding you that smoking is prohibited throughout the country and that the speed limit is 50 kilometers per hour.

Nestled in the heart of the Himalayas, the flight from Kathmandu to Paro with Druk Air is the prelude to a journey filled with wonder. The sight of the towering mountains, including the majestic Everest, will literally leave you speechless, but if the country sparks interest worldwide, it's primarily because it's associated with happiness.

It is true that Bhutan has spectacular mountain landscapes and breathtaking places, such as the Tiger's Nest temple, perched at an altitude of 3,200 meters, and the dzong Punakha, half monastery and half fortress. And it's clear that traveling to Bhutan is worthwhile if you're drawn to mountains and lost kingdoms, but happiness also plays an important role.

"Many honeymooning couples come here," Penjor, a Bhutanese guide, tells me. "And also retirees who insist on being happy."

Bhutan is a parliamentary monarchy in which King Jigme Singye Wangchuck coined the term in 1972 dirty national happiness, as opposed to gross domestic productThis means that happiness is given more importance than the economy, although it is clear that the degree of happiness is not easy to calculate.

To clarify the concept, the Prime Minister of Bhutan declared a few years ago: "If the country's wealth increases, but the people are not happy, it means something is wrong." That's why government inspectors regularly ask Bhutanese citizens about their well-being, their income, how they spend their free time, whether they feel like foreigners in their own homes, and their level of education. All of this helps establish a happiness index and implement necessary adjustments.

A tourist tax of $100 per day and a very expensive visa

On the other hand, Bhutan is a Buddhist country that prides itself on producing less pollution than the environment can absorb. Therefore, upon entering the country, you must pay the Sustainable Development Tax, which is US$100 per person per night. In addition, you have to pay for a visa that is much more expensive than that of neighboring Nepal, although it has decreased in recent years: it was US$250 per person per day a few years ago and can now be as low as US$100. In return, the government provides you with a car, driver, and guide, and arranges your hotels for the trip.

It's clear that with these prices, backpackers won't find it easy to travel to Bhutan. However, after landing in Paro, you'll find yourself in a mountainous, green country where people dress in traditional clothing. The men wear a kind of elegant robe, the gohand knee-high socks; the women, a long dress, the Kiraand a short jacket.

The French traveler Michel Peissel recounts in his book Secret Bhutan who managed to enter the country for the first time in 1968. Before that, he had tried unsuccessfully up to five times, since at that time they did not admit foreigners. When he finally entered, the king had just banned his subjects from wearing Western clothing.

Of course, that was a very different Bhutan from today, where there were no maps and money didn't circulate. Today, however, they welcome tourists and proudly showcase the country's traditional architecture, Buddhist temples, and dzongs—fortresses where monks and government officials live together.

After driving a few kilometers through the country, it becomes clear that you've entered a very mountainous region. This means the roads climb steeply, but near the capital, Thimphu, there's a highway just seven kilometers long where the speed limit is 50 kilometers per hour.

Another surprising fact about the country is that it has no traffic lights, not even in Thimphu, a city of 50,000 inhabitants. Sitting in a restaurant at a central intersection, I watch a municipal guard trying to direct traffic without getting stressed.

Bhutan's cuisine is also unique, especially when it comes to its very spicy dishes. Rice is the staple food, but there are also Tibetan momos and the popular ema datshi, a local cheese dish with very spicy chili peppers. Another traditional dish is the shakam datshi: dried beef (shakam), local cheese (datshi) and green chili peppers.

Penises are a sign of blessing

Apart from the dzongs and of the stupasIn Bhutan, some strange animals called takinwith a cow's body and a goat's head, the people who practice archery (the national sport) and the many penises that are painted on the facades of the houses.

In the Punakha Valley, one of the most beautiful in the country, there is, apart from the majestic dzong Called the Palace of Happiness, it is a monastery dedicated to Lama Drupka Kunley (1455-1529), known as "the lustful monk." He brought Tibetan Buddhism to Bhutan and claimed that enlightenment could be achieved through sex.

The many penises painted on houses in Bhutan are not considered obscene. They are seen as a blessing that brings good luck to the people of the house.

One of the highlights of a visit to Bhutan is the hike to the country's most famous monastery, Tiger's Nest, an eagle's nest at 3,200 meters. It has snowed and is very cold when I climb, but a monk tells me: "If you suffer, you are purified. That's why they built the monastery so high up, so it wouldn't be easy to reach."

The monastery dates back to the 17th century, but it burned down in 1998 and was rebuilt. According to legend, a tiger-like demon lived among these rocks, but a monk meditating in a cave managed to drive it away.

When I finally arrive at the monastery, I'm surprised by the darkness of the caves, filled with Buddha figures illuminated by candles, the scent of incense, and the monks reciting monotonous litanies. But as I leave, when I see the breathtaking view, I think that happiness can't be far away.

Other places where we can be happy

It's clear that happiness isn't exclusive to any one country, region, or ethnic group, but I admit I've traveled to several places where I've been surprised to see people happier than usual. Aside from Bhutan, the list—and it's not meant to be definitive—could be the following. Incidentally, I just realized they're all islands. Perhaps I associate islands with happiness.

The Marquesas Islands

They're on the other side of the world, in Polynesia, and on one of the islands, Hiva Oa, the painter Paul Gauguin and the singer Jacques Brel came to live (and die). I loved it: it's absolutely beautiful, and its inhabitants seem to have been vaccinated with the drug of happiness.

The island of Shikoku

It's not one of Japan's most visited islands, but it's worth going because it showcases rural Japan and because it's home to the pilgrimage to the 88 Buddhist temples. It's a long journey that reveals an island overflowing with spirituality and pilgrims whose smiles seem to expand the world.

Mozambique Island

What I love about this island is that three worlds come together: there's the Portuguese side, with churches by the sea, Indian temples, and mosques in a fishing village. It's true that not everyone is happy, but the whole place exudes a sense of happiness, as if the confluence of the three cultures makes it possible.

Lake Titicaca

It's the highest navigable lake in the world, at 3,812 meters above sea level, between Peru and Bolivia. I like the Uros Islands, near the Peruvian city of Puno. They are floating islands, made of reeds, where I was struck by the happy faces of some of the inhabitants, who told me that they can't accumulate too many things. If they did, they say, the islands would sink. It's a good image, a counterpoint to consumer society.

A Greek island

I won't name them, but there are some Greek islands, away from the main tourist spots, where you can find happy people with just a boat, a few olive trees, and a flock of goats. The blue of the sea and the white of the chapels are complemented by ancient ruins and seaside tavernas where you can eat grilled fish and drink retsina wine that seems to hold the secret to happiness.