Nirmal Purja, the renowned mountaineer of no impossibles, dies in an avalanche
The British-Nepalese mountaineer has lost his life in an avalanche in Pakistan with nine other people
BarcelonaGrief in the mountaineering world over the death of renowned mountaineer Nirmal Purja, 43. The British-Nepalese hiker was part of an expedition to Broad Peak—one of the world's highest mountains—when the group was surprised by an avalanche on Thursday. His body was found this Sunday. To date, the deaths of nine out of ten missing climbers have been confirmed. Among the fatalities is also Nadhira Alharthy, the first Omani woman to reach the summit of Everest.
Elite Exped, a company of which Purja was one of the owners, has lamented the tragic news on social media. "The world has lost one of the greatest mountain climbers; a leader who inspired millions through his courage, humility, and firm conviction that human potential is far beyond what we often imagine. Beyond his extraordinary achievements, he wanted to show the world that anything was possible when you dared to dream big, believed in yourself, and refused to accept limitations," they expressed in a heartfelt statement.
Together with Purja and Alharthy, the other victims whose names have become known are the Nepalese Pimapur Bahadur Gurung, Gyalu Sherpa, Nima Sherpa, Kili Pema Sherpa, and Wang Zhong. According to Mingma Gyabu Sherpa, director of Elite Exped, Purja was leading a team of three people who were about to reach the summit of Broad Peak when the avalanche surprised them on Thursday. Alharthy was part of an independent expedition, with two other climbers.
In addition, there were two other teams. One formed by the American mountaineer Mallory Geis and the Pakistani Sohail Sakhi — the deaths of both have not yet been confirmed — and another with the Chinese climber Wang Zhong and a Nepalese guide Kili Pema Sherpa. The death of the Nepalese Nawang Thindu Sherpa has also not been confirmed, to date.
A highly respected figure in the world of mountaineering
At 43 years old, Purja has been a very influential figure in mountaineering. He rose to fame after climbing 14 8,000-meter peaks in record time—just over six months—in 2019. A feat that Netflix decided to bring to the screens with a documentary released in 2021, 14 Peaks: Nothing Is Impossible. In 2024, the mountaineer repeated the challenge without supplementary oxygen.
Last Monday, Purja explained on his social media that the initial idea of his expedition was only to climb G2 mountain, but before flying to Pakistan he realized that if he also climbed Broad Peak he would only have one peak left—Cho Oyu—to be the first person to climb the 14 eight-thousanders twice without oxygen. "This was not planned, but opportunities do not call, they whisper to those who are already working in silence," he reflected. "Broad Peak, I ask for nothing more than a safe passage up and down," he added.
Purja was also part of the British special forces and a member of the British army. Furthermore, he also had a dark chapter in his life, as he was accused of sexual abuse by two female mountaineers. The Finn Lotta Hintsa and the American April Leonardo reported the facts to The New York Times in 2024. Facts that Purja, through his lawyers, denied.
His body was located in an "extremely difficult and dangerous" area and, quickly, messages of condolence arrived. Balendra Shah, Prime Minister of Nepal, was shocked by the tragic news. "Only the physical journey of all deceased climbers, including Nirmal Purja, has stopped, but the story of his courage, dedication, and contribution will always remain alive and as an inspiration".
Located in the Karakoram mountain range (Pakistan), near the border with China, Broad Peak is the twelfth highest mountain in the world. Known locally as Falchan Kangri, its summit rises 8,047 meters above sea level.
