If Miguel de Unamuno were to resurrect in Barcelona, he would certainly never repeat those oft-paraphrased words of his: "Catalans are doomed by aesthetics." Gaudí, on the other hand, if he were to appear near one of his emblematic monuments, might think they have turned those places "into a shop of thieves." Just a few meters from La Pedrera, he would find enormous shop windows displaying diapers, bottles of alcohol, all kinds of tourist trinkets, and T-shirts with offensive slogans.
The "Supermarket" signs, some uglier than others, have spread throughout the city, and the neon lights inside them illuminate our streets, including the beautiful historic center. Do municipal authorities really not have the power to decide what type of businesses open, where, and in what quantities? Establish minimum criteria, including aesthetic ones? If this seems implausible to an adopted Barcelona native, I can't even imagine how those born there (survive) this progressive degradation of the city. In my city, the year became the eve of the 1992 Olympics, and for a time I experienced its progressive splendor. From then on, I can't believe it when I visit it now. Yes—like so many others—I've thrown in the towel and sought refuge in the outskirts.
Landing in the center of Barcelona, one feels like one is in the middle of a painting. The Garden of Earthly Delights Bosco's, with people, things, and the landscape in disarray; there are many, too many things that offend the eye, dignity, and sense of belonging. How is it possible that this beautiful city, perhaps the most beautiful in the world, has become unlivable in so many ways? We have made it unlivable, or it has been made unlivable.
In recent years, I've traveled extensively through different countries and places; both East and West, both more and less developed countries; in no city have I seen historic parts so overrun by haphazardly placed and designed shop windows and businesses. If someone had told me 30 years ago that the center of our beautiful city would look like this, I would have bet it was impossible.
But it seems that the evil doesn't come only from bad decisions by those in power. It also comes from the fact that these decisions are followed by an eternal political tradition that, regardless of its ideological leanings, consists of washing one's hands, avoiding responsibility, and shirking complex problems. And Barcelona has become a complex problem that many, including myself, have retreated from. In the literal sense. "Like a lover who has never ceased to cherish the object of his love, but knowing it's not good for him, leaves it," Plato would say. Another quote, not to be pretentious, but because there are situations so banal and incomprehensible that one lacks the proper words to express stupefaction, helplessness, and, why not say it, even rage.
To recover a healthy urban lifestyle, Barcelona needs a serious facelift, with real political transparency, where we know who makes decisions (or doesn't), why they make them (or don't), and what consequences it all has. We citizens expect to be informed, at the very least. It's time to start, if we don't want to lose Barcelona forever.
