Serra Groceries: The corner Starbucks couldn't keep

BarcelonaThere are two dates that confirm the year of origin of Queviures Serra de Barcelona (13 Girona Street). The one stated by Barcelona City Council, 1890, and the one maintained by the family that opened it, 1850. The waitresses who had begun to change their window display told me this one morning. It's noon, and as vermouth and lunchtime approaches, the ham sandwiches (5.50 euros), whipped cream sandwiches, and also the sweets and croissants disappear. Bags of potato chips, olives, anchovies, and bottles of vermouth take center stage. Perhaps this is the window display that transforms the most times in a single day: up to three times. And a note: the pastries are artisanal; from the Nuestro Pan bakery (15 Lluís Companys Street).

In 2023, a new date, the family owners, with three generations tied to the grocery store, decided to transfer the business. They verbally agreed to do so with Albert Cabanas, who has Alexis Chica as manager, but there were other businesses that wanted the large corner of Girona Street and Ausiàs March Street. "I know Starbucks made a very tempting offer to the owners, a lot of money, but it didn't go through because the current owners had made a verbal commitment," explains Alexis, who adds that the verbal commitment was that the grocery store wouldn't disappear, that that establishment from the late, mid-, or late 19th century would remain. And so everything remained the same in Queviures Serra.

Wines from the Catalan DOs

Well, not exactly the same, because until 2023, Queviures Serra was just a shop where people came in and asked if they could also eat. And now Queviures Serra is a restaurant, serving breakfast, vermouth, lunch, and dinner, where people come in and ask if they can also buy food. And the answer is that now you can do everything: eat and buy. Right at the entrance of the grocery store, you'll find beautifully labeled wines, especially from the twelve Catalan designations of origin. "The ratio between Catalan wines and wines from other DOs around the world is 40% Catalan, 30% from Spain, and 30% international," says Chica, who points out that the prices are from the shop, not the restaurant. And appreciation is important.

If you continue forward, you'll see the counter with cold cuts and cheeses, and tables on either side where you can sit. On the first floor, there are more tables, where you'll be served from 7 a.m. to 11 p.m. all the ingredients for sale at the grocery store (pay attention to the cheese and cold cuts tables), as well as salads with oxheart tomato and tuna belly; meatballs; chicken; tripe; or baby octopus with peas. The dishes are prepared in a central kitchen off-site and delivered freshly prepared to the store daily.

For wine lovers, ask the waiters for the schedule of upcoming tastings, as they always have a few prepared for the evenings, often free of charge. And among the final curiosities, there's one closely linked to the history of Queviures Serra: the woodwork of the grocery store, in a precious style, which may remind some of the Foix Pastry Shop in Sarrià, is listed. The clock, which occupies a central space, doesn't tell the time, but it certainly doesn't need to, because its presence lends personality to the grocery store. So much so, that it's even the image used for the store's business cards.

The future of food is viewed with optimism, despite the fact that "the problem with establishments like ours, where we sell quality products, is the supermarkets, which are everywhere," says the manager, who adds that the balance between meals and the food available is very competitive. Comestibles Serra is open every day for all meals, except Sundays, when it closes at 4 p.m.