Life and miracles of the bacon maker

BarcelonaAt 147 Gran de Sant Andreu Street in Barcelona, the same business has been operating since 1897. I don't know if there are many commercial establishments left in the city that can display this fact and flaunt it as an exercise in survival and civic and social service. Yes, the Puig family has owned Cansaladeria Puig since 1957, but before that, more than half a century before that, they owned Emili Bové's sausage shop.

It was Próspero Puig and Elvira Brignardelli, Próspero's parents, the current owner and second generation of the business, who decided to continue Bové's business. They were employees at two bacon stands in the Sant Antoni Market and decided to go it alone. First, on Sant Antoni Maria Claret Street and, in 1957, in its current location, in the heart of Sant Andreu, where Próspero remains today, ever since he was very young, influenced by his parents, of course, when he studied the trade of handling and transforming pork products –extensive training in Paris, Salzburg and Stuttgart– to convert them.

A trade that isn't so common these days—not even on the signs of establishments and market stalls—because, according to Próspero, "everywhere they make a bit of everything." That is, beef, rabbit, pork, lamb, all kinds of cured meats, cheeses, precooked dishes, etc. Specific specialization is scarce, which adds even more value to Can Puig's existence.

The building is a gem in itself. In 1909, it underwent a complete renovation in the then-emerging aesthetic of Modernism. And it remains that way today. The façade, balconies, wrought iron, and doors are a period gem that invites you to stand there for a while. There's one very special feature: embedded halfway up the façade is a cannonball that some sources claim was fired in 1843 during the Jamancia (the "Jamancia"), the progressive revolt against the government in protest of the lack of resources and, particularly, food. It's a privilege to be able to contemplate the building preserved as the fabulous relic it is. What's more, the ground floor is part of the Cansaladeria Puig heritage.

Relief assured

El Próspero is still looking forward to retirement fairly soon. His daughters won't be continuing the family business, but it seems the successor is well underway so the cansaladeria can continue with the shutters up. "A great advantage, our customer is our neighbor. Our function goes beyond commercial and economic; we perform a social function," he says. He's referring to the fact that on the day Mrs. Enriqueta doesn't come, they rush to ask for her. There are people who come every day even if they don't need to buy anything: "Oh, I don't know if I need anything today, but I came anyway."

What's the star product? Without a doubt, the raw sausage and the sweet ham. A good part of the product they offer is homemade. quality".

And one last reflection on the trade. "At a national level, there is a lot of specialization and knowledge of hams and paprika sausages -chorizo, the king-, but the tradition of the tocinero is not very deep-rooted or has much importance", of the tradition of Frankfurt, of Frankfurt, they say cold cuts. The knowledge of the trade, the handsome and sonorous name of bacon.